Following the link, I saw this guy on the page as well:
This may be handy for smaller parts as well (I wonder if one box could fit 100/110 springs, that would be cool).
1 Like
Lol, I love how no matter how beautiful the board you post is, as long as that wrist rest is in the picture, it’s the only thing we’ll be looking at - like cleavage on the weather channel.
4 Likes
Got some time finally to program some very simple keystroke like effects.
11 Likes
Technically on my shelf; some improved lighting for my switch collection.
In the photo, from left to right:
- Mint Holy Pandas
- Kiwis
- Creamy Inks
- Tangerines
- Silk Yellows
12 Likes
And which ones do you store inside your board?
1 Like
hahahahaha, what’s actually hard to see is that after four years of almost daily use at work it is starting to get kinda gross and discolored. I’ve been debating what to do, I have 2 of the very nice marble keebs wrist wrests i use at home, but on the other hand I’m so used to the baguette and it looks so nice in pics i might just have to get another one.
3 Likes
Wait, what, that’s not a real baguette? =O
2 Likes
Dream (top) and reality (bottom) side by side. I’ve just finished requirement specification for my own design called Forever Ambre.
Maximal screw and spacer size: M3.
Number and position of mounting points (for screws and spacers): as shown by pictures.
Dimensions: approximately 4" × 7.5" × 1".
Weight: approximately 3/4 lb.
The bottom and middle (keyswitch) plates remain 1.5mm thick aluminum. The top (keycap) plate is now made of 1mm thin stainless steel. This construction, not including a PCB, weights 280g.
There is another, same-weighted, version made of titanium the thickness 1, 1.5, 1 mm respectively. However, as the aluminum - aluninum - steel construction is already quite sturdy, and there should be no significant difference in the feel and sound between aluminum and titanium, I wonder if anyone really needs titanium.
Bottom line. A little secret: 1mm steel in place of 1.5mm aluminum does not improve mechanical strength, but allows me making high-quality top plate (w.r.t. sound, feel and look) with simple tools such as sandpaper.
8 Likes
The current incarnation of my Copre board (the colors are way off in the pic which has a yellow tint).
- Cooler Master QFR with a Frosty Flake (QMK) controller.
- Vortex aluminum case.
- Cherry silent blacks, no springs, lubed with 3204, filmed.
- Copre “dome” sheet.
- SA Leviathan.
4 Likes
those caps are nice dude! Stunners.
2 Likes
Love me some minimalist desk setups.
1 Like
Got my Prime_E built! Coming from my Realforce I’m surprised at how quickly i’ve gotten used to using layers. Switches are U4 Bobas, using Worldspawn’s acrylic case.
8 Likes
Haha, I know. Your bread’s lookin a little moldy
2 Likes
I finally made a wrist rest I’m happy to have on my desk. Still some quality issues to work out, but it gives everyone an idea of what I’m trying to accomplish in my experiments thread. Full write up soon.
4 Likes
18 Likes
Pros and cons of having the rotary encoder in the bottom left VS top left?
Fresh
3 Likes
I guess I’ve always had it at the bottom left, except when I picked up a second hand Preonic, which already had it soldered in the top left. I use it enough that I find it easier to access on the bottom row.
1 Like