A full review with extensive testing is on its way, but the Geon Tool is making a good impression on me so far.
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The plate file is posted in the thocc supply discord: Discord
I built mine with a PC plate and like it a lot.
I also liked the zebra wood one a that you can still get here:
But, uh, yeah I had a mixup with that wooden one. So im not sure how it feels in the correct case. 
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That’s a twofer, plate files do exist and TIL they also make wooden plates for 60%. I’m much obliged good sir!
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Tata80 - the slow build…
Lubed and screwed in the M-One stabs. Never screwed in stabs before and learned it’s a bit fiddly…
Next step: deciding on the foam…that’ll take me at least one fishing session 
(I’m on holiday )
Edit: one fishing session later…I’ll go all foam and if I don’t like it, start removing foam bit by bit 
Also, excited to try the Aflion Blue Sky Switches that I toyed with for the Keebmonkey Cozy75 (they sounded so much better than the Momoka Frogs!)
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So far, so good.
Note to self, buy more switches for a TKL…
Out of curiosity, when trialling different switches for a board, do you have a preferred spot and use a few switches, or do you do the full board? I find that they often sound differently in different spots (depending on the keyboard), making comparisons hard.
Next up, installing the swan gaskets and putting it all in the case.
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Got a Nissho in and decided to rebuild it after harvesting the keycaps. Was able to retrofit a 104u to allow for USB C cable to be added. Uniform 30g domes are pretty nice too!
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It looks like I might have gotten a dodgy batch of switches as about 20-30% don’t actuate 
it didn’t even occur to me that that was a thing…it’s a bummer as I really liked the sound and feel of the Blue Sky switches and I hope I can troubleshoot with the vendor
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The CST finally got button 4/5 today, the Kailh Choc fit perfect in there. And with Mill-max attached to the cables, just in case.
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If you’ve ruled out bent pins, bad PCB, broken hotswap sockets, etc… that’s incredibly bad luck. Out of about the 2000 switches I own (about 24 sets), I think I’ve only had two individual switches where they didn’t actuate, and one of those was probably because I broke something opening it up. Hope the vendor sends you replacements.
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Today on my table. The table itself
Updated my desktop.
The table has become larger, but there is no more space at all ((((
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That’s a great looking desk! 
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I pulled out my southpaw today and put in a bit of elbow grease to repolish the weight since it’s been a couple of years and I’m planning to bring it to the Greenville meetup in March.
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Wasn’t sure where to post. Was on my workbench most of the day and now it’s on my desktop.
I finally committed the Bluish White switches to solder!
This is one of my two Gemini keyboards by Night Owl Keyboards. I was never able to get a top that supports the Novatouch, but it’s a lovely MX board. This one is cerakoted in a color-shifting Stingray finish. The most challenging keyboard I have had to photograph. Keycaps are GMK Thai Tea.
And I completely forgot to get a shot of the awesome copper plate it has for Instagram . 
Building was more challenging than my polycarbonate Gemini. The tolerances were very narrow before cerakote. So with the paint, this sucker has TIGHT tolerances.
More color challenges on the Instagram post
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Gosh, that color is amazing - and it compliments that set like they were made for each-other. Very nice.
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Today greased two switches. But only one was installed. Switch Feker.
Both switches have good tolerances. Film is not needed.
I decided to install “Feker” on Tiger80. BUT since I bought stickers for PE modding. Decided to stick them on.
Video:
Here is an example of how pbt and abs sounds and is pressed. Also for comparison with Durock pom.
And here is just a comparison on a bare board.
I got a very slow pressing. They are lighter without lubrication. I lubed Krytox 205g0.
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Being a Lego fan I finally broke down and bought the Adam keyboard. It’s definitely more of a novelty, but it’s not terrible either.
The board came with switch plate mounted stabs so I just used them. You could add some screw in stabilizers if you were so inclined.
The building blocks went together okay, but there’s a world of difference between the knock offs and actual legos. The tolerance on these blocks are such that they do make the case warp a bit. Once it’s all together it’s not that noticable.
I stuffed it with TTC Sparkly Blue switches.
Then because I had them, some SA Seafaring keycaps finished it off. I actually really like this set, but never had a place for it to land. So here we go.
I suppose the thing to do would be to completely remake it with actual Lego pieces and even augment it from there. What will likely happen is that it will go on the display shelf.
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I started pricing. It’s doable, but pretty pricey. The big issue is that you can’t get the large base plate in very many colors. Such a fun keyboard. It sounds and feel really good too, don’t you think?
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It’s really better than I would have thought. It kind of defies explanation too because there’s really not much going on here. Perhaps it’s just the simplicity of the whole thing?
Good to know about the prices. I probably have enough pieces to get reasonably close here, but then I’d be pirating a bunch of kits that the kids might build again one day. Buying a piece at a time sure does add up really quickly.
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