What's on your workbench today?

Tried to fix up my Gateron UHMKnown switches. I’m really not a fan of them at all, but I’m always too lazy to sell things, so I figured I would try to mod them.

Swapped out the springs for some Sprit 60g Extreme 3 slow springs. 205g0 lube on the P3 MM Stems from Wuque.

I like them a lot. Slight bit of wobble, but nothing more than the stock stem. The bottom out is much more prominent, and the sound is very thuddy.

I’ve tried the MM stems in a few different housings now. They don’t do much for Cherry housings. They sound and feel pretty similar to stock stems when you put them in most Gateron housings. The most promising have been JWK housings. They also are a good candidate for my all nylon Tecsee Ice Candy switches, as they help to avoid stick-slip.

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Tried the leaf hat mod using 5~6mm wide 6~7mm long strip of office paper semi-folded in half then inserted into the top housing.

Sounded like the mod reduces leaf rattle effectively. But one of the two switches I modded lost a bit of tactility. I tried a thicker paper (playing card) before trying office paper which may have warped the leaf.

I’m going to try modding a few more switches to test the ‘killer thick paper’ theory when I have more time.

UPDATE: I think the paper ‘hat’ could to be narrower. Hard to tell if legs could touch the paper or not.

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Lubed and installed the stabs on the two PCBs. Just need to solder everything up!

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The Camillo colorway is one of my favorites.

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@beanns2 Could you explain what PCBs are these? I am missing some context. Thanks!

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TL;DR: they’re plates made out of Ultem 1000.

Details:

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As @donpark said the switch plates are out of 0.125" Ultem 1000 (PEI). The PCB I am using is a Hiney H87c North.

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Tidying up the closet. And here is a small number of my switches.

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Tidying up the closet. My keycap sets and rest.

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Disassembly was needed as I was reassembling my three keyboards.


Here I just changed the “sandwich” inside.
Since we needed switches from what was standing.
It is convenient that I simply dismantled the case and completely replaced only the “sandwich”.
This assembly is on an aluminum plate, akko pom brown v3 switches, keycaps 21kb.

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Here on the assembly of tofu 2.0
I changed the mounting method. Made gasket socks from Kbd.
Switches were installed by LICHICX XCJZ. And JTK keycaps.
And I caught an interesting moment.

The main culprit is the carbon plate and tiger80

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Made very well according to the file. Although the file that gives the Kbd does not contain a plate, but the entire project.
But the manufacturer understood what was needed and did well.

Final

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Casual lap-bench sesh: turning some discount TTC mystery clickies into ~70g silent tactiles with Sprit springs and Gazzew U4 stems

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Performing an MX-addectomy on my Matrix ME SE.

So now I have a Matrix ME SE EC.

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How have you been liking it and how was the experience? I have a board shipping now that may have an EC PCB coming at a later date. I am pretty excited to give it a try, here is hoping it moves forward :crossed_fingers:

I like the idea of the lap-bench, but I would 100% move my legs, spill everything, and quit for the day. :sweat_smile:

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Well, yesterday I got it all together and the space bar was binding. So I sat it down figuring any remediation might end up with me going Mongo on it, so I’m going to wait until I’m good and rested to deal with it.

From what little I’ve been able to experience so far, it’s pretty good. I think the only thing I’m somewhat hesitant now is that the 60g Orange Domes aren’t quite as snappy as the Blues I have on another board, but I was in for trying something new.

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Use a magnetic tray and “crack open” the switch like an egg for a better work flow. When you done opening the switches you just “pour” the stems out of the magnetic tray into whatever. :ok_hand:

You can basically watch the TV or something all the time without loosing track…

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image

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Any compatibility issues from extra thick walls?

I have no.

It depends more on the keyboard. An example is ikki68. There were problems with mt3.
I had her. Spacebar was friction. But more infuriated that the numbers in the middle of the ikki body were rubbing.

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Perhaps you configured the Ikki68 PCB mounting to be too flexible? That would result in such an effect.

I had a PC plate, carbon, pom, fr4 and aluminum.
And this is the first ikki there, the board is not flexible.