That was morning. And in the evening there is a new view.
This version of the “spring” clone has a speaker port. EEEE 
.
The Chinese want to eavesdrop on me. I am a good citizen.
So I deleted it
By default, there is a Polycarbonate plate.
But I have a plate from pom.
I’ve got two sets of black lotus switches. I’m ready for a recolor to buy a 3rd. Any idea if they’ve done another switch based off the same mold yet?
I’m only know of their tactile versions: White and Blue Lotuses. Whatever the Lotus Pop magic is, hope to see hear it in more switches.
I don’t know where to write. Usually here. Comparison amateur from me.
Photo under the spoiler
And on 5% of the keycap there is a marriage when casting the cap.
Nice, I feel that kbdfans have lots of reusable design and parts in more than one keyboard.
I see some similar points in the plates and a common mounting way
I took a family photo.
And under the spoiler each separately.
Technically it’s on my digital workbench but I’m modifying the Frog Mini’s plate to add .1mm of opening to the housing cutouts to make them more Deskeys housing-friendly. It’s slow going but it’ll absolutely be worth it to not see the tabs get sheared off all the time.
After assembly on three types of switches. Different variations of the top mount, attachment points, as well as two types of silicone domes. Plus the overall quality and ease of assembly.
I would like to write about my experience.
There are many pluses. There are videos about them on the Internet and on the site itself. Yes, there are many reviews.
Degreased some Cherry MX Clear stems using Vertrel XF. I had about 100 used stems originally from the gazzew/hbheroinbob guy a while back. They appeared to be washed but some grease left on them.
How I used Vertrel XF: I put the stems and about 10ml of Vertrel XF into a small plastic tub with near air-tight lid. After closing the lid, I spin the tub around for good 5 minutes then let it sit for 2 days to let vapor do the work (it evaporates too fast to apply with brush) albeit slowly before soaking them in warm soapy water with baking soda. Here they are being dried. I doubt all the grease has been removed but at least they don’t feel greasy now.
Next step: try coating one with RO-59.
Tried to fix up my Gateron UHMKnown switches. I’m really not a fan of them at all, but I’m always too lazy to sell things, so I figured I would try to mod them.
Swapped out the springs for some Sprit 60g Extreme 3 slow springs. 205g0 lube on the P3 MM Stems from Wuque.
I like them a lot. Slight bit of wobble, but nothing more than the stock stem. The bottom out is much more prominent, and the sound is very thuddy.
I’ve tried the MM stems in a few different housings now. They don’t do much for Cherry housings. They sound and feel pretty similar to stock stems when you put them in most Gateron housings. The most promising have been JWK housings. They also are a good candidate for my all nylon Tecsee Ice Candy switches, as they help to avoid stick-slip.
Tried the leaf hat mod using 5~6mm wide 6~7mm long strip of office paper semi-folded in half then inserted into the top housing.
Sounded like the mod reduces leaf rattle effectively. But one of the two switches I modded lost a bit of tactility. I tried a thicker paper (playing card) before trying office paper which may have warped the leaf.
I’m going to try modding a few more switches to test the ‘killer thick paper’ theory when I have more time.
UPDATE: I think the paper ‘hat’ could to be narrower. Hard to tell if legs could touch the paper or not.
The Camillo colorway is one of my favorites.
TL;DR: they’re plates made out of Ultem 1000.
Details:
As @donpark said the switch plates are out of 0.125" Ultem 1000 (PEI). The PCB I am using is a Hiney H87c North.
