And here I thought “creams smell like fish” was just a meme
Swapped the Lavender Linears out of my MAJA. Swapped in some T1s. Tried out linears for as long as I could, but I really have learned that my preference is tactile.
Good on you for trying. Honestly, eliminating a category of switch options will save you from a lot of regrettable purchases as you try things out. Now you can focus on finding your perfect tactile (or enjoying the differences between them).
I enjoy using both linears and tactiles. Tactiles typically are for having some fun while working, but linears are for getting down to business (tactiles can break my concentration sometimes).
That’s really interesting. I like the simplicity in sound and feel of linears, but I’ve found I’m much more accurate and thus concentrated while working with a heavier tactile or clicky.
For me I guess it’s more of a feeling of being held back by the tactility as I have no choice but to ride the bump trough the press – the press and typing experience is pre-determined with a certain cadence. With a linear, as long as the switch actuates, my fingers can press down as hard or as light as they want (inconsistently I suppose, per finger, per press) which really speeds up my typing – there is more freedom in the press. I mean, I’m being a little over dramatic about this, but I hope you see my point. I can definitely see how the consistency of tactiles would promote accuracy though.
Today’s workbench is the stove!
Used Rit DyeMore to dye some clear Techflex black. The black color is not at all interesting. What is more exciting is now you can attempt to better color match your setup more then the 30 or so commonly available colors. Next I am going to do a similar scrap test but with white instead of clear. I want to see if it will help with the depth of the color to reduce any transparency.
Gentile prototype: I was curious about how a silent linear with abrupt bump near bottom-out feels like. Lack of usual audible feedback on bottom out makes silent linears boring. My design intention is to add a bump to see if that helps. That grey lump is just epoxy clay which will be sanded down after it hardens. It may not bond solidly to POM so .
UPDATE: Expected force graph:
Ah interesting. I’m a white noise kind of person, so predictable noise becomes something I can rely on as feedback rather than distraction. Linear switches actually make me feel like I’m going to miss the next stroke, so sometimes I catch myself looking down to make sure I know where I’m going. Meanwhile, with tactiles, the bump assures me I can move on confidently. BKE Redux being my ideal form of tactility. I do like to mix it up though as I have 4 desks I frequent. Two of them are serious business and have the same heavily modded FC980Cs, while my lab desk and bench areas see frequent MX keeb changes.
Off topic but still cool:
Turned my C64 mini into this little thing that I can mount in a 3.5 inch floppy bay.
Amazing!
Love it. Love your mod. Love the NES on the ground. Love your wall decoration. Love your toe
Thanks. I try
Leading Edge Blue Alps snuck into frame too. Nice find.
What!?!
So just when you think you’ve bottomed out, there’s still a bump left to go. Nice. Could you have the bump occur on the upstroke? Kind of like haptic feedback on a PlayStation controller.
First time desoldering (a whole board) Took a couple switches to get used to it, but I think I have it now. I’m starting on one side of the pad, then moving the iron to the other side, then gently pushing against the pin until I see it moving—at which point—fwoop!—I solder sucker it up.
This is the correct face for “desoldering a whole board”
Bahaha, wish me fortitude pleasee
Maybe. 1mm is rather a small space though. I think a sloped ledge at the end may be more realistic than a bump with each keystroke ending on the ledge.
Results from the prototype:
- bump needs to be further down. 4mm keytravel ends right where the bump was.
- epoxy clay didn’t stay on.
- Swapped out the default .5mm button spacers for the mouse clicks with .9mm on the left and .8mm on the right to eliminate pre-travel
- Swapped out the 5mm DPI button with the 3mm DPI button because I don’t use that button at all
- Lubed the mouse click rails/guides/whatever they are called with 205g0
Know any dope mods for a Logiteck MX Master?