What's on your workbench today?

[HungerMechanic]

These kinds of projects have always interested me.

You saw starting about a decade ago various ‘writing devices’ ruthlessly optimized for this purpose. One wonders if it was a chance to sell some obsolete hardware. But the dedicated solutions, using e-ink screens and maybe solar chargers could give a new lift to mobile writing.

The central conceit of these kinds of devices is that people just need a typewriter + screen and MS DOS Edit to do their work. If you’re writing a fantasy novel from your head, that might be true. But a lot of writing these days seems to require the internet, where many of the source documents are easily found.

I would use a device like this one in conjunction with paper and books, the old-fashioned way. Take it to the library, even. The ‘distraction-free environment’ pre-internet was libraries, museums, archives, maybe a cafe, and the study.

[HungerMechanic]

BTW, if you are going with Dolch PAC, you might consider the new KeyKobo Dolch GB:

KEYKOBO DOLCH ABS TRIPLE-SHOT KEYCAP SET PRE-ORDER

On a black NCR-80, or something like this, you really could have a Dolch-like computer. That keycap set has a ton of Dolch-like accents.

Anyway, I find your project very interesting and relevant. Please keep us updated!

[Neprawda]

Today I changed the spring on the switches - Akko Bittersweet Tactile.

The stock inside is like 18mm per 60 grams.
I have a spring from TX 22mm UXL.
Three types like 60-55-50.
I wanted it to be weaker so that it would look like my favorite previous Akko. Namely, Akko Pom Brown.
And yes, they are similar.

Instead of photos, there is a whole video)

Summary

https://youtu.be/buC6i5kYzmM

The starting point and activation point are the same here and immediately the maximum force is 60 grams.
That’s why I didn’t really like the stock gain. Good, yes. But ideally I would like it to be easier to press.
And just the 50 gram spring on 22 mm is what I need. For me.

[wjrii]

@HungerMechanic

These kinds of projects have always interested me…

This project is falling squarely into the category of, “I want one of these, but I don’t know if I’ll use it enough to justify retail price, but if I leverage the maker tools I already bought and make it a project then I will feel less guilty if I don’t use it much.” My southpaw, “travel board,” and my early ergo builds would fall into this category, and indeed I don’t use any of them regularly, but they were all fun and interesting to work on.

I think even for a first draft of a fantasy novel, you’re hamstringing yourself if you would normally rely on having online resources at hand. Perhaps the person who really knows the background, real or fictional, of what they’re writing would do well writing a full novel. I think it’s no coincidence that Un Kyu Lee calls his devices Micro Journals, because that’s where I think they could really excel, putting down thoughts, impressions, etc., that really do need to spring forth, if not fully formed, then fully informed by your own interior life. I suppose too that the difference between a writer deck and a cyberdeck is mostly one of software, LOL.

For me, I toyed for several days with running actual MSWord 5.5 (free download!) in DOSBox or even a bare metal emulator, but ultimately this felt like the more flexible and less fiddly option. If I find I do actually use the thing, I may compile the newer version that lives on the author’s github and get text formatting and color in the terminal version to make it really snappy.

Design-wise, I suppose the simplest option is to just screw the Pi onto the back of the monitor and build a box big enough to hold a USB hub and battery pack. I think there’s room to be a little more explicit in evoking old luggables though, and maybe even to get a coiled cable to make something that attaches to the front but isn’t mandatory.

On the other hand, the ginormous battery cavities of early clamshell laptops give you the freedom to make something fairly easy to service, though it certainly brings the keyboard question to the fore since you’re committing to a form factor (60% most likely), if not an exact layout.

[HungerMechanic]

I wanted it to be weaker so that it would look like my favorite previous Akko. Namely, Akko Pom Brown.

Wait until you see the board I post next…

[HungerMechanic]

Yes, leveraging existing equipment is very sensible. After all, we’ve all got spare keyboards lying around.

What I mean in terms of fantasy writing is that, if your goal is to put thoughts onto paper, then a “distraction-free machine” fits the bill.

(In)Famously, George R. R. Martin wrote his novels on Wordstar for MS-DOS, deliberately in order to avoid distractions. I guess a lot of the story was in his head, so he just needed to type it out.

So for that use-case, it made sense. Same with microjournaling. However, other forms of writing, such as research writing, may require you to have 30 tabs and a bunch of programs open. Because you are looking at a bunch of webpages and PDFs. So I think a conventional laptop might be better for that specific case.

It’s perceptive of you to say that a cyberdeck and a writer deck are largely a difference in software. I think there’s a lot of overlap. But a dedicated writing device should emphasize things like e-ink, whereas a cyberdeck might use a more conventional screen.

My ‘distraction-free’ device is actually a Sony DPT-RP1, as it keeps me with just documents and a pencil. However, that’s very esoteric.

I agree that you should go with a coiled cable, as it’s just perfect. And DOSBox and Word may be tempting distraction, as you can probably ALT+TAB (or equivalent) out of it. You could turn a netbook into a DOS computer, though. And they are already clamshell in shape. But yes, FreeDOS could allow you to build a clamshell DOS writer. Sounds fiddly, as you said. The Pi with WordGrinder is prob. more efficient.

[Neprawda]

Summary

[HungerMechanic]

This may look like an ordinary “Attack Shark” M87 Pro keyboard.

But it’s not.

The empty interior spaces have been filled with sorbothane, to give it a deeper and thockier sound profile.

The stabilizers have been retuned, such that the caps fit perfectly level.

And most important, the stock linears have been replaced with hand-customized AKKO POM Brown switches:

The POM Browns were carefully hand-lubed with 3204, enough to reduce any factory scratch, while maintaining their tactile shape. The springs were replaced with Geon 50 G 18mm springs.

I found that, after storage, the stock POM Browns had become a little scratchy. The springs especially were contributing to a dry, scratchy sound. So I figured that the Geon springs, listed at similar weight, would be a much better replacement.

They turned out better than anyone expected. I sent the keyboard in for professional rebuild, as the POM Browns were fine work. A special, spring mixed-lube was used. The POM Browns have lost most of their scratch now, and feel the same. Maybe smoother and more consistent. These are the best possible POM Browns that you could build at this weight.

The keyboard sounds comparable to a ‘factory thock’ TKL like the LINK87.

Sound Test:

https://imgur.com/a/VhqihCI

LINK87 for comparison:

https://imgur.com/a/link87-tkl-8Y1Wqjy

[HungerMechanic]

With the POM Browns, I figured they just needed a higher-quality replacement spring.

So, instead of opting for 22mm or 2-stage, I simply used an 18mm spring [like stock], listed at the stock weight of 50 G. Geon springs are consistent and punchy.

I had first tested these 50 G Geon springs in KTT Macaron Orange. I found those switches to remind me of POM Brown, especially when using the same springs. So it’s intriguing that you brought up AKKO Bittersweet at the same time this was happening.

Do AKKO Bittersweet have the same tactile leg as POM Brown?

The POM Brown bump starts a little earlier than MX Brown, almost at the top. And the long-pole makes it feel snappier. If a person were to enjoy Durock Medium Tactile, but wanted something a little lighter, this might be perfect. I find it to be between pre-tooled MX Brown and DMT in tactility.

So we have two contenders for switches that are similar to POM Brown:
KTT Macaron Orange
AKKO Bittersweet

Do we know who makes POM Browns and Bittersweet? It was suspected that KTT made the POM Browns for AKKO. This question is relevant. People are still looking for POM Brown today. It seems no longer to be on sale in North America.

If Macaron Orange or Bittersweet were substitutes, that might allieviate the problem.

Before and after the POM Brown rebuild, I found myself thinking maybe it should have been those in my Cycle7, and not Zealio V1R. It’s a good build, but POM Brown would be lighter.

[Neprawda]

I have both a durok and a ktt.
Both the durok and the ktt have a metallic ringing sound.
The sound of the “leaf” plate is ringing. The pressure may be good, but using it with such a problem is pointless.

I generally immediately buy everything I can from the category - “lightweight, bright tactile switch”)

I’m waiting for the HMX now. Let’s see what they have.

The “Akko Pom Brown” doesn’t have the nasty ringing from the “Leaf”.
And the Akko Bittersweet doesn’t either. That’s why I chose them)
For example, the new Wuque are not only similar, but their pressing is better… It’s nicer. The tactile sensations are more vivid, it’s this bump, the lump in the middle, a clear hump. BUT. but.
They have this very ringing from the “Leaf” that makes it pointless to use them.
I’ll try to re-grease the “Leaf” a little later by hand and assemble it on the second Cycle7.
Yes, I already have two Cycle7 keyboards = 4 sandwiches of assembly))
The mechanism for quick disassembly and replacement directly requires that there be ready sandwiches. And you just change them)

[HungerMechanic]

Yes. When you have keyboards with swappable PCBs, you realize that maybe you should have multiple of those keyboards.

The POM Browns don’t have much leaf noise in stock form. But even with lube, they have that KTT ‘squeak’ like the Mallos. In the Mallos, you have to lube the leaf-area to reduce noise.

I also bought a handful of HMX samples. Can you tell me, what are these new WS tactiles you are referring to?

I think the Cycle7 would be good with POM Browns, and also probably TTC Gold Brown Pro. Those Gold Brown Pro really improve with 3204/205g0.

[Neprawda]

@HungerMechanic

I also bought a handful of HMX samples. Can you tell me, what are these new WS tactiles you are referring to?

What did you get in the mail today? (Part 2)

[IMG20250727174614] KBDfans Magic Wrapper Cloth Summary [IMG20250727173138] KBDfans 75% carrying case Summary [IMG20250727181741] Akko Bittersweet Switch Summary [IMG20250727174303] [IMG20250727183858] WS BigLucky Switch-Tactile Summary

Summary

[schizobovine]

I’ve been working on a few Topre conversions. First try was using Naevies with plate mounted stabilizers (and some badly drilled screw holes to secure the PCB to the plate).

That went well so I opted for a more serious OEM-style conversion, which meant custom plate. I saw @d3L7r0n’s post about a F1-8X conversion, so opted for something a little less expensive but still a full aluminum board. KBDFans KBD8X mk3 provided the case and Hype Keyboards cut the plate for me, including fixing my bad mash up of Cipulot’s OEM plate with the KBDFans provided plate file. At this point I’ve got a working board, but I’m still not happy with the sound/feel.

Tuning the stabs has been a royal pain and they still have some kind of rattle going on despite lube, landing pads, and gaskets. Probably going to try thicker silencing rings and see if that helps.

Domes were also a bit of a pain, though that was because I have no idea what I’m doing with Topre stuff. I initially got KLC domes as part of their kit—gods how I hate them. Way too linear and having to place each dome individually was awful. Switched to Deskeys.io T1 56g domes and they are SO SO much better. Placing strips is way easier than individual domes and the springs stay in the domes rather than flying out at the slightest breeze.

Initial version with KLC domes and the red case.

Second stab (heh) using T1 domes and the burgundy case.

[wjrii]

I am once again sojourning in the land of the cursed.

One way or another, I’m going to make a new board for my writer deck. I have a couple of ideas, both made for a 60% footprint, and both leverage the fact that stabs are aligned the same as the switches of a pair of 1.25u keys. Normally, the mere existence of the adjoining keys make this a useless curiosity, but if one designs for it, it can add some options for switch-stabilized 2.25u and 2.75u keys, or use them to allow those two widths on hand-wires when the plate is poorly suited to stab cutouts. For 2u, the caps will interfere, and 3u use different spacing. I have seen people completely remove the spring from the dummy switch, but without a stab wire I think it makes more sense to use (lighter) springs in both dummy and live. Admittedly, this is an easier option for someone who likes a heavier typing feel, as it would be challenge to keep total key weighting under 60g, and mine will probably be 75 or 80.

So that being said, the first thought was actually a corne monoblock derivative, angled a modest seven degrees so it would still fit in the physical footprint of a 60% board. Each thumb row could be 3x1.25, 2.25/1.5, or 2.75/1. The other option is a pretty vanilla 60% with 1u keys in the lower right and adapted for switch-stabilized keys. That does make the KLE pretty triggering, though.

I also ordered a bunch of bits and bobs to make the thing come together, though honestly I came VERY close to just grabbing THIS obsolete but delightfully bonkers seventy-dollar education netbook, which strictly speaking would be cheaper.

[Rob27shred]

Been really enjoying Keygeek Little Ghosts on a PP plate in my F1, they sound especially nice with DCS caps IMO. Although I think I am swap out the Little Ghosts for Granites to see how well they go with PP. I really liked Granites on alum, but they did have a slightly higher pitched sound than I’d normally prefer. I think PP is the perfect material to knock the tone a bit lower, so I’m gonna open the ole F1 up here in a little bit. Still waiting on my Keygeek Blue Cheese V2s from Keybay (another super deep sounding switch from KG), but I’m pretty sure I ordered them like mins after they opened the preorder. I didn’t get the email yet & just happened to decide to check on the restock status. To my surprise they were up for pre order so I jumped on it as these switches have been really hard get. I was loving the Y2s in the F1 on alum, I think Blue Cheese V2 on PP will be a thock monster combo!

[Extra_Fox]

Soonth.

[rpiguy9907]

I cannot tell from the single photo if that is closer to a Tiffany blue or like a pastel mint color. Either way it is beautiful.

[Wooden-Toilet]

Wanted to throw this out there in case it is not just me, but for anyone who has tried out the Designer Studio Stabs what boards have you used them in? Idk if I’m just somehow doing something wrong but when I try to seat them onto the PCB, the stab doesn’t want to sit parallel to the PCB. The most it will go down is to like a 45 degree angle and if I want to try and get it to sit further, I would have to push it down so hard that I will probably snap the plastic. It seems to me like the distance above that little hook that goes through the bigger hole and hooks onto the other side of the PCB isn’t long enough.

I’m genuinely confused as to why it isn’t working even though it should work on a standard 1.6mm PCB. If they’re not meant for 1.6mm PCBs I guess that would explain everything then.

Designer Studio DS Adaptive PCB Mount Stabilizers V2 – Divinikey Link for the stabs.

[schizobovine]

@Wooden-Toilet

Wanted to throw this out there in case it is not just me, but for anyone who has tried out the Designer Studio Stabs what boards have you used them in? Idk if I’m just somehow doing something wrong but when I try to seat them onto the PCB, the stab doesn’t want to sit parallel to the PCB. The most it will go down is to like a 45 degree angle and if I want to try and get it to sit further, I would have to push it down so hard that I will probably snap the plastic. It seems to me like the distance above that little hook that goes through the bigger hole and hooks onto the other side of the PCB isn’t long enough.

I’m genuinely confused as to why it isn’t working even though it should work on a standard 1.6mm PCB. If they’re not meant for 1.6mm PCBs I guess that would explain everything then.

Huh. I’ve used them a few times and never noticed anything like that. I wonder if the board itself is actually thicker than 1.6mm? Or maybe the holes aren’t big enough?

Are all the stabs like that? I’ve had a few where one set had molding issues on that clip part – usually the issue is that it’s just flat out missing and won’t clip in at all, but I could see it getting too much material there and never being able to clip over the board.

Are you using any foam padding under them? I have noticed that being an issue with some types of stabs those can make it hard/impossible to clip in. Knight stabs in particular don’t seem to like the “full-size” pads and i have to use the smaller notched rectangle ones that fit inside the housing.

[Wooden-Toilet]

I was attempting to use them on a good ol Mode/Gondo PCB no foam or anything, just the stab and the PCB. I doubt it’s any issue with the mold as it seems to be perfectly normal at least to me. I did try it on a different PCB and still had the same issue. Haven’t tried another of the same stab though so I will at least try that. I can try and send a picture later if testing another stab does the same thing.