Very minty green.
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I haven’t used either of the sets I got since I have fallen in love with TypePlus stabs,but the Designer stabs are definitely made for just 1.6mm PCBs & don’t have 1.2mm variant. If you can post a pic or two of what is happening we’d be able to help better. Although honestly it sounds like they have some sort of molding issue from what you’ve said. Gonna check my sets in a min after hearing this!
I have figured out the issue and there doesn’t seem to be a fix around it because from what I am seeing it’s a design issue not a molding issue, as I checked and tested other DS stab housings. Basically this 90 degree bend that I show below doesn’t clear the stab hole and blocks the stab from going down versus what I originally thought was the issue.
(Excuse the scuffed pictures as I was just trying to isolate the point I wanted to show)
Stab housing not able to sit flush against the PCB.
Designer Studio Stab Housing
C3 Equalz Stab that worked on the PCB
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Is it hitting a hotswap socket or is this a solder PCB?
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It’s a solder PCB so nothing is hitting it on the other side, its just getting stuck on the front side of the PCB because it’s not able to clear the hole and go in.
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Looks like it needs a little corner shave.
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Yea if I really wanted to I could just cut/sand it down but I decided not to.
Damn I thought I hated stabs…
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I had this happen! I was also able to fix it by trimming some plastic off with a hobby knife:
Modded one on the right, fit perfectly where the stock one interfered with a too-close socket.
I love those stabs and have them on a bunch of boards; so far I’ve only had to trim them the one time, on that one slot.
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While I’m trying to be less dogmatic about it, it does simplify certain things for me on DIY, and I remain convinced they’re a solution to a problem that didn’t need to exist.
Now that said, dummy-stabilization went away for a reason, but I do think it has promise for limited use cases like mine.
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Yeah I feel y’all on the stabs. I’ve mostly gotten MX stabs figured out, though sometimes a bent space bar or warped PCB gives me trouble.
But man, I have NOT figured out how to make Topre stabs not sound like a rattling mess. Done lube, landing pads, and silence rings. I even tried some 0.15mm poron stickers (for Holee mods) to keep the wire from moving around too much. But I still hear rattle. I think it’s coming from the slider wobbling in the housing, which…I dunno what to do besides try new housings.
Putting together an EC keeb with OEM parts is definitely a labor of love. Using Naevies with MX plate mounted stabs came together much faster, though there’s basically zero options for customization of the switches.
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My suggestion is to plug your ears. Mostly kidding but I’m typing on an HHKB with a very rattly left shift (which I barely use) and a slightly rattly spacebar (which I use all of the time). Enter for whatever reason is perfect.
I honestly just gave up trying to tune this thing a long time ago and I love the way it feels so I just stop really hearing the spacebar.
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Cool project. Although, those are pretty cool floppy disks in their own right.
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Thank you. I have many little hobbies. 
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I like it! I can appreciate the simple solution of zip ties, but with the thoughtfulness of making sure they’re color matched.
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Are there PKUNZIP ties, if you need to open them?
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edding 751 lakmarker
This is a used case. I didn’t notice it at first. Because this spot is a ghost.
In the sunlight or a bright lamp, the spot is not visible. It is not visible close up on the macro, that there is some kind of damage to the anode coating.
But in the dark it is a very light spot, and in the semi-darkness it is a dark spot. Just some kind of surrealism.
At first I thought it was a spot. Dirt. But I couldn’t wash it off.
Then all I could think of was to paint over it.
That didn’t help either. The tone is too dark. If you erase it, it is erased completely, not partially. I thought to erase it partially so that in the dark it would not be a light bright spot.
It is difficult to catch on camera, but it really is like a white spot in the dark. And a dark spot in the semi-darkness)
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Finally got around to spring swapping some Granites to be a bit lighter (I went with my go to Geon 18mm springs, 45g this time around) & put them on my F1 with the PP plate. Running DCS Honeywell on it right now & I’m super happy with how it turned out! PP definitely takes the sound of Granites down a notch or two, combined with the lighter springs giving a less aggressive top out it gives the F1 a really nice middle ground sound. Not too deep, but still a bit on the bright side (at least with DCS, have to try GMK & thick PBT yet). The spacebar is surprisingly deep & subtle despite using DCS, might have to swap the Granite out for a long pole switch to get that to sound a bit more aggressive. Overall though I am very happy with this config on my F1!
Edit: So before I started to mess around with different switches for the spacebar I figured I better try out GMK caps. Still haven’t tried any thick PBT with this config, but GMK seems to be the way. Really gives the Granites an awesome sound on the higher pitched side, but not clacky if that makes any sense. Also using the lighter springs in them really brought them to life for me, they have such a smooth airy feel now compared to the stock spring. I guess I’m just not a fan of multi stage springs. No matter how light the bottom out weight is on them I always feel like they’re just too aggressive on the upstroke. At this point I’m just gonna stick with Geon single stage 18mm springs as all of my most used boards right now have them in the switches & no other spring has hit like these for me in a long time (some Korean steel springs I got from god knows where & Catwee springs were the only other ones I got so partial too).
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From the “juice might not be worth the squeeze” department: I finally did a laser-cut cap tray. Footprint is a mm or two shy of US letter-sized paper and it holds a TKL kitting plus a little extra. It’s just deep enough to handle MT3 or SP SA with the lid on
It came out more or less exactly how I expected it to (on the second version anyway), but it was fiddly, it only looks okay, and my cutter took FOREVER, including a lot of monitoring. It’s also stackable (a bottom “plate” can nest where the lid would go), so I might rework the design to be 3D printable and see if low infill and fast printing produces something usable with less babysitting and glue.
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