Yes, works with via same firmware as hasu. I am running vial with the same firmware hex compiled for hasu controller.
You can join the anykeys discord and ask evyd13 if she has any left or you could have some made since it is open sourced.
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Thanks 
In trying to remedy teeter-tottering stabs so I can again show my long poles some attention, I took those o-rings used to burger mount Tofu’s and thought they might work in elevating the stab housing without dampening the downstroke.
Early testing is positive and encouraging. Installation is a bit tricky, but after a few times, I had it down without much fuss.
I used a 7u spacebar with a wickedly loose keycap and Colbalt’s which aren’t long poles per se, but are definitely on the taller side of what I had on hand.
I pushed the slider as far down as possible. There’s still a bit of daylight below. This is beyond the actual distance the slider can normally travel.
This is as far as the slider goes down with a center press and keycap. On the plus side, the teeter-tottering has been totally eliminated, on the downside the upstroke sounds different. More pronounced for some reason. Idk, maybe since there’s no contact between the stab housing and PCB any longer. More testing is needed.
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I finally finished my Púca today. I like how it turned out, especially how the LED’s light up the frosted acrylic panel beneath the PCB.
I also designed a little skirt to go between the switch plate and the PCB. I guess just to make things look all tidy.
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/116487-puca-10-key-switchplate-skirt
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Late night frankenswitching, slowly starting to realizing buying all nearly identical switches makes it very hard to discern which part is which. (Making bcps with cherry hyperglide blacks, jwick blacks, and kailh blacks)
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Wait wait is this a mkii v3 r2 or a mkii v3 r3? R2 is part of the thing’s name and isn’t a version? Wha… ok fine… just tell me where to find the .json file plz
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More work on the U80. Spring swapping the bobagums to TX Long 62g. I did the space bar first to test and really enjoyed the difference.
I also will try the PC plate too.
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I just finally built the Prime_E v2 since I got the case for it for Xmas.
Polipandas (unlubed)
IFK Strawberry Lemonade
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After a lot of trial and error, I think I’ve finally gotten my hot plate SMT soldering technique to a point where I’m getting consistent results with putting together daughterboards.
I’ve had some issues with the USB-C connectors and the small size of the pads and pins. The solder paste can easily bridge the pads underneath the connector where you can’t then manually fix it with your iron.
My solution has been to try to use less paste on the pads in the first place if possible, this is hard with the stencil so sometimes I’m removing some excess after removing the stencil. And if that doesn’t work, I’ve found that by reheating the board and removing the connector, I can then remove any excess solder from the board with some wick, before adding the connector back on the hot plate again.
I managed to destroy quite a few connectors by overheating them, it seems that you need to be quite careful with the heat you apply to the connector, especially when trying to remove solder bridges with an iron. It is very easy to pump too much heat in and destroy the internals of the connector. You then spend a long time trying to find soldering errors when it’s actually the connector that you’ve fried.
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Very nice. What stabs are those?
Looks like the lavender Cannonkeys stabs
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Yep that’s right!
They were in stock and I thought complimented the colors of the Rara V2 switches. They tuned really easily!
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I finished one of my projects yesterday and got all of my switches (minus the alps and some odd kailh ones) laid out and organized in my switch testers
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I got inspired by Ben Vallack’s “Card” keyboard, but I wanted an unibody non-wireless version, so I made this:
Then I thought that a bigger version with sockets could be fun for experimenting with layouts, so I also made this:
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Inspiring, as always.