I made a power switch for my pc, lol.
Using a whole keyboard as a power button. =)
Board returned to me, made it a clicky board with BOX Whites, also those keycaps are seriously impressive.
Anyone has an idea how to mitigate hollowness with zero place for foam?
Perhaps the tape mod would work. Is there plate foam in between the plate as well?
Hmm I didn’t think of plate foam, I’ll need to check out the tape mod as most of them leave residue, thanks for the suggestions.
This is mainly an issue on the two bottom rows, they have this distinctive hollow-case sound.
hot glue
I think if it’s little grids that are stopping you from putting the foam, you could:
A: Cut them off
B: Cut the foam
C: Something else
Also, masking tape works well for taping the bottom of the pcb. I’ve never done it much because the sound is not for me, but I never had any problems.
I wonder if maybe the larger keys on the bottom rows might be contributing to the hollow noise? Like it isn’t as much about the empty space in the case under the PCB, but rather the empty space under and inside of the longer keycaps? I don’t know what it sounds like so take what I say with a grain of salt. Might be easy enough to put some foam in the spacebar to see if it makes a difference and even if it doesn’t it may narrow down where the hollow is coming from.
Today I’ve been teaching myself both Illustrator and Blender, as I finalized a custom plate design for my Saturn. Since it won’t have integrated feet like the original plate, it needs to align with two support wedges that mount to the bottom of the casing. Just sent the wedges and plate off to be printed and cut, since everything seems to fit correctly?
Building an all-black KBD67 Lite this evening to test NK_ Charcoal.
- Black POM plate
- Black ABS case
- KBD67 MKII RGB V3 PCB (that’s black, too)
- Black soft bumpon feet
- Thin over-PCB foam layer (yep, also black)
Which blacked-out switches should I try on it first?
- Gazzew Boba Black U4Ts
- Gateron Oil Kings
0 voters
Edit:
Pretty clear winner there; lots of details and a recording here.
It’s alive!
This little Pixelblaze Pico that I’m using to drive the LEDs is absolutely amazing. Not only is it handling all kinds of different lighting schemes, but I can also attach it to my network, and configure through the browser.
How does it get power?
I’m taking the 5v and Ground off the USB connection at the PCB.
I will attempt to make a little “how to” article on using the Pixelblaze to drive LED’s for a keyboard. Attempt being the operative word there.
You would think someone who has built a hundred keyboards might actually have a workbench. Welp, not me. But here’s what I have on my dining table today.
Picked up a Hello M0110. Doing a dry fitting to test sound and stabilizers. This is my first time to try Teflon tape instead of dielectric on the stabilizers. I like it a lot. It took several attempts to find the right amount to use (hint, not very much at all). The end result is very clean feeling and doesn’t tick.
This board has a nice sound. Currently has stock Cobalt switches. Tomorrow I plan to lube the switches and solder it.
The finish is really shiny. It’s similar to the shine gray color on my LZ board. I’m going to have to find a keycap set that compliments it.
what’s the keyset? the colors really pop
That’s good old GMK Aero
Is this from the drop run or the recent “hello again” run?
It’s the rerun version. Quite happy with it. I do think I like the overall look of the Modern M0110 more because it’s just chunkier, but the finish, feel, and sound of this board is nicer. Also, this one is much lower in the front with a smaller incline.
Currently using the fixed version PC plate top mounted. (No gasket)
I got it for below group buy cost with 2 plates and 2 PCBs. Lucky me
Nice. I grabbed a gray one myself (durning GB). I was surprised at how metallic the gray was – it’s almost a dark silver and really distinguishes itself from the other gray boards I own. I just got the replacement plates in. I’ll have to build it soon. I’m glad you like it.