It’s almost like the back side of tin foil in color. I feel like it wants to look a bit more “blingy” than retro. Still searching for a keycap set that works that angle. Are you going to do top mount or gasket? I’m still undecided. But if I want to try gasket, I have to burn a set of gasket pads. Not sure what to do 
My intention is to gasket mount. You may already know this (disregard of so), but make sure you put the thicker gaskets on the bottom case if you go that route.
I’m thinking about pairing it with GMK Nuclear Data. I think something like GMK metropolis would look good too. Really, if it pairs well with silver which generally looks quite metallic, it will look good on this gray.
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Did they ever release a corrected plate file. Still waiting on my corrected plate. No shipping notification yet… sigh.
Corrected plate file:
If you need an invite to the server:
I’m not sure of the shipping status of batch two. I hope you get shipping notification soon.
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Right on! That’s awesome buddy. Yup, dry stab modding is an underrated skill. I just dig having different routes to the same great place.
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This is really neat, first time I’ve seen tape used for stabilizers instead of lube. Did you just wrap the wires or insert tape inside the stab housings themselves? Curious how that works.
Also Aero looks great on that board, don’t see enough of that set.
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I just wrapped the wires where I would normally put lube. It will be different for each brand of stabilizers, but for my newer durock, I used about 1/4 of an inch and still had to trim some. If it’s too thick to slide into the stabilizer housing, you’ve got too much. I did put my usual dab of dielectric grease where the bar clips in.
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What mode are you converting them to?
From clicky (stock config) to tactile; I’m typing on those now.
SO PUNCHY!!!
They really do make “maximum tactile” switches from just a few years ago seem quaint. They’re on a totally different level.
Where I do lots of typing I don’t think I’d like to use these all that much, but for a friend of mine who came for a visit, these were perfect. He does more I’d say a small-to-medium amount of typing and has a tendency to make heavy-finger errors with his current red-switch keyboard. I let him try a few other more moderate clickies and some strong tactiles, but he definitively preferred the tactile-mode Clickiez over any other switch on the tester - so I decided to convert a whole batch to see if he still felt that way after typing on them.
He does. Says it’s the right amount of stronk resistance to keep him typing deliberately and with far fewer errors. Everybody’s different - and that’s why all this variety is good. Finally, there is an MX-compatible switch with sufficient tactile heft to satisfy my friend’s massive ape hands.
He was a bit less excited when I told him it would take about a hundred bucks to populate his tkl with these. 
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Friends keychron K6
KTT strawberries
Trying out the Outemu Silent Peach switches in my BBOX60 - gotta get the TTC Frozen Silents out first. I quite like the poppy TTCs in this board, but I’m interested in the Outemus.
Here’s a single key comparison on the number row:
Clearly, the Outemu has a much more quiet bottom-out, but it does have more stem and spring noise. The feel is complimentary; the Outemu’s bottom-out is much softer - I wouldn’t really go so far as to call it mushy - just not firm like the TTC’s.
Edit: here’s a recording of them in the board; there’s mild interference on the middle row with both switches since this is a North-facing PCB and MCR is similar to Cherry in dimensions:
Here’s the same board with the TTC Frozen Silents for comparison:
The Outemus are definitely more quiet, but I do have to say I prefer the TTCs for their clean, poppy sound and crisp feel. I’ll use these for a little while and see what I think after a few days. So far I’m liking them more than I liked Bobagums, and probably at least as much as I liked Silent Inks.
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My first attempt at Topre lubing. It went well lubed the rails & stabs with 3204. Stabilizer wires with dielectric (just in the wire meets housing area not near the domes). And to my surprised lubed the PCB. That last one worked better then I thought it would, stock was crunchy.
Lessons learned:
- Prepare area ahead of time and not somewhere that will be difficult to find a spring when it inevitably falls
- There is a spring under the spacebar keycap
- Take apart slowly
- Take apart upside down
- Do not turn the plate upside down when sliders are in it
- Putting back the PCB onto the plate with sliders domes and springs is tricky and arguably the most crucial part of the process.
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This may be controversial, but I was finally able to mostly eliminate spring crunch on my Realforce with Deskeys pink domes - which seem to be notorious for spring crunch. I straight up bag lubed my conical springs with 205 
It took me forever to unravel the clumped mess of springs, but after a few hours separating them, I can happily say there is little-to-no spring crunch on my R2. But at what cost…
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Finally got my 3D-printed support wedges in. They were a perfect fit for my custom plate, and the Saturn-60’s casing. Melting the brass inserts into them was easier than expected. I now have the layout I wanted from the beginning - UK ISO with an arrow cluster, which wasn’t possible with either of the original shipping plate choices.
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Very nice, I could see that layout being useful overall. I love my arrow cluster.
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