WhiteFox/NightFox Appreciation Thread

Just put something the bottom of the case that will dampen the sound. I used a cut up rubber mousemat. It’s a pretty straight forward process but makes a ton of difference with the Nightfox/Whitefox

Cool! I’ll have to try that. I noticed some pinging in my Whitefox when I put the riser feet on and was trying to figure out how to best mitigate it.

Sorbathane! It’s a great dampening material.

Here’s my before and after of the Sorbathane on my Nightfox (Hako Violets).

Before:

After:

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uh yeah that pre-dampening sound gives me the chills. In a bad way.

Wow, huge difference in sound! Did you install sorbathane between the plate & PCB as well or is this just with it installed under the PCB at the bottom of the case? The acoustics of my Nightfox is my one big gripe with it (I have BOX Royals in it for now, pretty sure I’m gonna swap them out for Outemu Skys though). If that is what sorbathane just under the PCB does, one of the pieces from the sheet I just ordered from you is definitely going in my NF!

Straight underneath the PCB! It was my first time working with it so I didn’t even cut it that well hehe. I posted pictures of it right here:

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I use sorbothane under my PCB on my night fox and white fox. Makes a HUGE difference in sound.

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I had kind of a love-hate relationship with my Whitefox. It’s clearly well put together overall, and the keycaps are nice. But I didn’t like the position of the Backspace key at all. I tried moving it to the 1u key at the upper right but that also didn’t work for me. I think either layout would be fine if I was using the Whitefox almost all the time, but I use a lot of different boards, as well as some laptop keyboards that can’t really be altered, and I found switching back and forth was confusing.

I also found the pinging to be pretty bad, but my biggest niggle with it was that they apparently put the spots for the rubber feet in the wrong place (or else they used rubber feet that were too short), because the edge of my board would contact the desk as I typed. I replaced the feet, which helped some, but in the end I gave the board to my mother.

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I had that exact same experience with the rubber feet and forgot to mention that. I couldn’t believe InputClub could make such a silly design mistake like that. Ultimately I just stuck on larger rubber feet to prevent it from happening.

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I have shelf liner under mine as it stands, but the White/Nightfox cases resonate so bad that does just about nothing. That is why I was so surprised at how well sorbathane dampened the noise. Can’t wait to get my 12" x12" sheet & put some in mine.

Oh, BTW. Still waiting on the Outemu Skys, but I talked to saomeone at Desk Candy & they said the have the switches on hand & are just waiting for the XD60 ver.3.0 PCB from KPrepublic to ship my order. If the PCBs don’t show up soon I’m gonna see if they can just send me the switches in one package now, then the PCBs later in another when they get them. I’ll keep you updated bud! :metal:

Hey,

Anybody looking for additional screws for the case because they stripped their originals, I may have found something to help out here. Quick disclaimer: I’d hold off on buying these yourself until I come back here to post if they do in fact fit properly.

I referenced this reddit post that Overkill posted in from about two years back: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/54rxxt/whitefox_screws_info/

Based on the recommendation in that thread I ordered these: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-M2-0-40-x-6mm-6DU16

Bonus is that these screws are black which should look really cool with what I’m hoping to do with the next White Fox I order (white cerakote or powder coat) and hopefully the GMK Nine set that is in Interest check here.

Update: Got the screw mentioned above in the mail yesterday. They are black, which is what I wanted.

They look to be a little longer than the stock screws, but I can’t confirm fit yet because they require a 1.3mm hex driver that I don’t have. I ordered that off Amazon, and I’ll report back after I can fully tighten the screws into the case to see if they fit flush and if they strip at all (my original problem with the whitefox screws).

Now I can confirm that the screws I purchased from this link: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-M2-0-40-x-6mm-6DU16 worked perfectly in my case.

By the way, this was the Hex Driver I bought off Amazon to tighten down the 1.3mm hex key screws: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O5EFT8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . So far, it’s an excellent little tool and didn’t strip when tightening, which was what I was scared of with sizes as small as 1.3mm.

They are black, so it gives a different vibe than the original silver screws. That means they’ll be a good accent when I build the white cerakoted or powder coated “ZenFox”

Images of the screws in case:

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It’s kind of crazy how much my tastes have changed since getting into this hobby. The whitefox was one of the first keyboards I saw that really caught my eye as the board I wanted to get. I got into keyboards well after the first sale with Massdrop and so I jumped at the kickstarter when I saw it was announced. At this point I prefer the higher profile designs and 65% isn’t my favorite layout aesthetically. I think as an enthusiast this board left me really disappointed. Out of convenience I got mine already assembled with Hako Trues and that is probably my biggest mistake. I hate these switches. Granted I used this keyboard at work since it was pretty quiet and that helped me to type without bottoming out all the time and that has transferred over to my other keyboards. While the hako trues kept me typing silently (at least, for a while, they click now) for the most part - the spacebar and other mod keys with stabs sound atrocious and reverberate with the keyboard a lot too.

The sad part about this is that while this board is in good condition and is relatively new, I consider it as somewhat of a fixer-upper project already. The form factor is decent enough and so is the overall build quality. I’ve never ventured into desoldering an entire board to replace the switches and stabs, so that is a bit daunting but it sounds like it will be a learning experience - and honestly I think having bought this board as a fledgling enthusiast has taught me a lot about the finer points of how to judge a keyboard’s qualities.

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WhiteFox was the first “WOW” board for me back when it was on Massdrop with the costar stabilizers. Seeing the Zealios in the WhiteFox made my jaw drop, and it’s been one of my holy grail boards since then. Still need to build one with V2 Zealios.

Yeah, the Hako trues disappointed me when they started developing the clicking, but to really get the most out of this board, I do a few mods everytime.

The WhiteFox and NightFox somehow has stayed as one of my top 3 favorite boards, if not my favorite board through the years, so I’m definitely biased. Only other ones that compete with it for me are the Canoe and Tina-C.

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Really liking those screws. Some red ones would be a cool accent as well.

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It’d be cool to find some other alternate colors. Since we know the exact specs of the screw size, it’d just be a matter of finding a manufacturer who has a color variety at that size.

You could also do some blue ones to match the stock keycap color way

NightFox with the black screws.

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That would look pretty good, sweet ideal! The only issue I could see with it is the screws would have to painted which always get damaged/chipped when installing them. Or they would have to be anodized alum. which would be expensive & strip very easily. Tempted to look into it, but I may be selling my Nightfox soon. I really would prefer not to, but I gotta come up with some extra loot in the next week & it is one of my lesser used boards lately. :cry: