Why Cherry retooled switches can bind with GMK keycaps


Is this a commonly reported issue? I don’t think this has happened with any of mine :thinking:

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What I’ve heard is that it happens more often and more severely when swapping a different stem into retooled Cherry housings. @ChrisSwires shared measurements a while back that showed that the rectangular part of retooled Cherry stems is thicker in the Y axis (if viewing from above looking at the stem cross) which would be consistent with my findings; a stem that is thinner in the Y axis would allow the keycap stem to move closer towards this edge and be more likely to bind or scratch against it.

I’ve even seen reports though of minor binding even with unmodified retooled black switches.


Yep, can confirm, I’ve had the issue swapping a number of stems into retooled, the tolerances are super fine across certain batches in regards to the stem and housing interplay, adding in a third party stem with looser tolerances can create issues for sure. I haven’t had issues with any of my retooled out of the box as you mentioned but given the tightness, yeah seems plausible as the moulds age certainly.


Especially true when attempting to make Holy Chickies. Been thinking of making a batch and was able to reproduce the biding problem with GMK keycaps, but not ePBT. The key cap will stick or even stop at the top of the depression if you press from the bottom of the key.

Here’s a Reddit thread on the same issue with a tedious fix.

Here is a better picture of why the retooled tops can bind with GMK caps, especially if you use a different stem.

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The keycap stem can snag against the curved part in the middle, which used to be flat.

This can happen even with stock Cherry switches and GMK caps, though it is much less likely because the Cherry stems are thicker which spaces the keycap stem away from this curved area. See comparison: