Haha, exactly. I just threw that out there since we’re on the path to the “world’s quietest” 
@ddrfraser1 Well, to the extent they resist bottoming out and diminish the force/speed with which the stem hits the housing when that threshold is passed. I’ve never done an A/B test, so this one isn’t keyboard science. Just a casual observation from when I switch from light to heavy boards.
Yeah, no worries!
Can confirm. Sometimes I forget about it - and then my keeb reminds me.
For me at least, the short Halo True springs are great for not bottoming out. I use them in linears - I don’t know if they’re intended as progressive springs, but they start out lighter than Clears and quickly get heavier.
r/mk is the part of the hobby that almost killed it for me. Then I found keebtalk and was totally relieved at how positive a place can be
It’s gutter trash there, stick to Keebtalk where actual constructive conversation takes place 
What a work…
I’m sure it will be the most silent keyboard ever, congrats!
I have been going to /r/mk less and less, it is all boring memes and photos these days. Usually anything interesting is on the 4th page, with no replies.
hasn’t it been like that for like the last several years? I don’t think I’ve checked it regularly since like 2017
That could all be very true. For where I was at in this hobby, I still felt like I was getting more out of it about a year ago than I am now.
The only project where a completely silent sound test is the best result 
I love this project and can’t wait to see the end results.
*cough*amateurs*cough* 
trampoline mod and qmx clips is what you want to do
you measure the distance between no actuation of the stem and when the leaf make contact (caliper + multimeter). you take that value and buy 0.1mm less then measured hard epdm rubber. epdm is very hard, there is no mushy feel just no sound. so if it actuates at 1.4mm get 1.2mm rubber. you have to manually cut out 2mm wide circle with a 2mm holepunch. you can also get a 2.4mm japanese holepunch but the 2mm will do too because the rubber compresses a bit when punched out. this is really hard and takes way too long. you take those rubber circles and press it with a switch stem down the plunger hole - I used one i carefully cut straight off and filed down a bit so I’m left with a flat end. be careful! you want to insert it straight and press down straight because if it rotates 90 degree you’re screwed - you will never get that rubber ball back out there.
next you want to select a switch that also fits qmx clips. with linears thats easy, they will all work. with tactiles its harder because the qmx clips take travel off the top. its not much, but it can lead to loss of the bump. MOD switches work great for it. the qmx clips press enough down on them to make the bump start RIGHT when you start pressing. its a feeling like topre. overall all of this will feel like topre once you’re done, just with less travel.
with those two items you will completely silence both up and down stroke. you can additionally use a silent switch with a strong padding like the outemu silent switches (gazzew), they have thick rubber blocks on their shoulders.
Have fun! 
one more thing - for the sound dampening inside the keyboard, you can fill it out with silicone. technically you can let the silicone cure a bit until its not so liquid anymore and crawls into everything and push in the pcbs underside to really take out all room. some people recently experimented around with it. you could also use a plateless design, seal all switches with hot glue, then submerge the whole bottom part of the switch inside silicone 
at a minimum you can fill out the bottom of the keyboard with it which will get rid of the empty space that generates the hollow echo sounds. AND it makes the board heavier 
the artisan makers might be better to answer this but I think you can just get smoothon silicone, mix up a batch, fill it out after measuring where the pcb starts.
EDIT: … and another thing… if you want keycaps that are “silent” use devlin K or Q series keycaps. they are VERY heavy and thick (2mm wall thickness all around) and should result in a deeper sound due to their thickness. I have an original white planck blank set somewhere but I’ve never used them in combination with the other stuff above. I just remembered that those made my linear planck very quiet.
here an old imgur album with comparisons: https://imgur.com/gallery/wOrtx
I use qmx clips and mod h tactiles 
It might be softer than this rubber, but TTC silent (and Bluish White) bottoms are basically pre-trampoline’d.
Have u tried a silent stem in a Bluish White bottom?
I’m wanting to say that I have, but I couldn’t easily tell if it was the feet or the trampoline doing the bouncing. IIRC TTC silent stems only have bumpers on top, and bottom out on the pole / trampoline.
I need to get some bright pigment and cover the feet and pole, and see which one leaves a witness mark.
I would love to use thicker keycaps but the whole point of this is to use the protools keycaps from WASD. They are pretty thin which is why I am filling them out with felt and blue tack. Silicone is a good idea, however, I think dampening foam will accomplish the same thing. The silent forest switches kind of eliminate the need for a lot of your suggestions wouldn’t you say? I will not using QMX clips because they ruin key feel.
After reading your suggestions, I’m not confident you actually read my post.
Also, Amateurs? Bit insulting… 
