How does the interference present itself, and do you know where the collision happens? Also, if you have any links to discussions on this, I would be grateful.
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Is the side of the keycap stem hitting on to the housing. The stem is hitting the housing then slide off. It has the problem with north-facing switches. For south-facing switches when you pressing on the side, it has a little bit of interference but not as noticeable as north-facing ones. I only got that problem with GMK sets, which might because they are thicker. I try other cherry profile caps and donāt seem to have any interference.
I am going to disassemble all my UHMWPE Boba. As more and more switches are failing I need to find something else to go with the UHMWPE stem and the boba housing. Any good suggestion other than holy boba?
Where did you hear that the KS-3s are vinyl (PVC)? Iāve been trying to find out what they are really made out of for awhile with no luck. Seems Gateron is pretty tight lipped about what plastics they use for housings. It does make sense though cause I got a batch of them assuming they had nylon housings only to find out they sound very similar to any of the other Gateron switches Iāve tried (KS-9, KS-3-X1, & KS-3-X47). They are slight bit lower pitched than the others, but not by much which convinced me they were not nylon.
Are JWK linear housings pretty identical to tactile housings? I ended up with some āmossā switches and wanted to play around with them a little bit. I didnāt want to waste my time though if JWK linear housings donāt work well with tactiles (leaf differences was mainly what I was thinking).
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These days, the leaves will definitely be different on most tactile housings from their linear counterparts. Switches from 3+ years ago maybe not as dramatically so.
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Indeed. The Bobas, for example - both versions work for both kinds of switches, but one has a leaf meant for tactile use, and the other has one meant for linears.
Yeah, I did find that the JWK linears felt worse for tactile stems.
Just curious, have yāall tried Frankenstabs?
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I think I have, but more out of in-the-moment necessity. IIRC an insert / mount had gotten broken and I replaced it with one from another stab. It worked but didnāt stand out to me too much one way or the other. I can tell you different stabs definitely have different scratchy / smooth factors apart from the tolerance / rattle thing. Cherry plate ones seem to have good tolerances but a bit more texture than Iād like in the travel, for example.
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Hmm, I see. I figured it would be game of tolerances and feel, which may render variance less rewarding given the lack of tactility or springs or sound. Thanks @Deadeye.
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You can try mixing c3 stabs with cherry stabs. I feel that it helps alleviate the pom on pom scratch that the c3 stabs had. It felt smoother though that may also be because I added more lube when swapping the stems.
Edit: these are r1 stabs btw, I think r2 may have fixed this issue but I donāt have any on hand to compare. Moved back to basic cherry clip ins.
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Iāve done this and regret it because the spacebar wiggled too much vertically. Gonna have to desolder that board just to replace the stabs. Because C3 stabs also has issues with ePBT, Iāve stopped using them entirely.
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I wonder if putting the Silent Box Pink Stem in the Cream housing would make for a nice silent linear.
You could call it āStrawberries and Cream.ā lol
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Ha! I had the same thought. I tried it last night, and itās not bad. It isnāt as different from the original as with the brown stem and possibly not as smooth, but you do get the POM resonance - and of course it looks lovely.
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I just won dragonfruit switches from a giveaway. I was planning on making holy bobaās with kailh polia stems, because i already have the poliaās. I will have the u4t stems left over and am now thinking of making these PB & j switches. Can you tell me if by swapping to these stems any of the wobble and ping gets eliminated? I am also considering putting in 55 gram springs so i can use these on my keyboard for gaming, would that also help with any of the ping, especially if i drown it in 105.
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Welcome!
I actually happen to have 55g springs (Catweewee) in my PB&Jās, but on their own the stem and spring donāt do much for the ping - in fact, the ping is notably worse than stock - but I havenāt lubed these yet. Iām thinking itās the tighter coils paired with the harder bump. Giving it a good coat of lube really should help.
As for the wobble, I donāt think itās technically any less when the switch is at-rest, but I donāt notice it as much typing - I think this is one of those rare cases where a long-poled stem has a more stable bottom-out than the stock one. Pressed-down, the stock Dragonfruit does feel a pretty loosey-goosey, but the PB&J not so much - feels closer to normal to me.
I swapped a top back to verify the above - what I actually did since posting the recipe was swap out the Dragonfruit tops for Bobagum (the pink linear Bobas) tops, which does help with the resting-position wobble. If you end up liking the PB&Js but want to tighten them up, Gazzew will sell tops by themselves if he has them in stock.
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Slapstick - Cherry MX Blue stem in BSUN housing
This combo makes a loud slapping sound on bottom out. Similar to Holy Panda and Cream except not as high pitched. Other than that, clicky sound is extremely muted and feels like a milder version of MX Brown.
I was rather surprised by how nice it felt and sounded, enough to consider making a full board of this funny combo.
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While I was assembling more Slapsticks, I noticed this little knob on the Cherry MX Blue stem. Clipping it off didnāt seem to affect the sound though. Weird.
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Yeah I noticed this when assembling this collection of clickies, and interestingly it is not wholly unique to Cherry:
8 of the clickies on this feature this little nub
Specifically:
- Kailh Speed Gold (but not Bronze?)
- Kailh Pro Teal
- Outemu Teal
- Outemu Blue
- Cherry MX Blue (standard and clear)
- Cherry MX Green
- Cherry MX White
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