Just received my FC980C 45g, I’m glad that I chose the 45g because the 45g seems super light for me I can’t imagine how much more lighter the 30g are.
I have a 30g as well as 45g (and an 87u with 45g).
The 30g are so light that my default typing position is such that I accidentally press keys with the hand not typing.
I love the 45g but I’m also looking for some heavier replacement domes to try out.
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Oh, at work I’m typing on my 87U 55g. At first it seemed a little heavy but got used to it after a while. So the 45g that I have on my FC980C its noticeable different. I’m thinking a 50g, not sure if they even make it, but would be perfect.
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I’d like to try the 30g sheet if you wanna get rid of it 
thanks
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I recently just received my 45g FC980C, and I have to say this is probably the lightest stock 45g domes I’ve felt thus far. It feels similar to a broken-in 45g 87U. I can get used to this, but I might dome swap with my Type Heaven later down the line.
The sound is also a bit inconsistent as it reaches R4. I could hear more spring ping on R4. The case is probably not as tight as a Realforce, which sounded much more consistent at full-size.
As for wanting a 50g dome, you can probably get that feeling from a dyesub FC660C or a full-sized Realforce 45g.
Here is my list from heaviest to lightest feeling:
RF 87u 55g > FC660C dyesub 45g > RF 104UB-DK 45g > RF RGB TKL 45g > Topre Type Heaven 45g > FC660C printed (OG) 45g > HHKB Pro 2 45g > RF 87u 45g (EK edition) > FC980C 45g
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I heard a lot of spring ping in my 45g FC980C as well. Not particularly loud or anything, but noticeable when listened for. Particularly in the bottom row, as you mention.
One solution presented here is to literally lube the PCB, which I think is more commonly done now. It’s also the method espoused by @anon81470386 in his Topre Modifications Guide (thin layer of Super Lube in his case).
Have you ever tried a “Made in China” FC660C? I have one, and the dome weigh is noticeably heavier than a newer “Made in Japan” FC660C. I would say the domes feel 5-10g heavier, and with more tactility at the beginning of the key press. Further discussion in this Reddit thread, as well as a recent lengthly discussion about dome weigh variability in the Deskeys discord. Another data point for your list, if you ever get to try one out 
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I only have experience typing on a HHKB Pro Classic 45g. How does the typing experience of 45g Leopold 980C compare to that?
The domes feel slighter heavier. Also because the FC980c has a metal plate (black painted steel), the typing feel is a bit harsher or the bottom out, imagine tapping your fingers to a 1mm plastic sheet vs 1mm metal plate.
The typing feel is nice and awesome though, it’s not better or worse, just different
Hey, do you still want/need ivory keycaps?? I have the white ivory caps that I’m willing to make a trade for the black caps found on the 980C. I ordered the K2 and would like that stark, stormtrooper color scheme 
Yes! Sent a PM
Put a hasu controller in my 980C yesterday. Halfway through first day of work with it - I think it’s my endgame keyboard.
TMK is a game changer: was able to remap the 6 top-left keys of the numpad to the standard 87key cluster, remapped the 4 leftmost keys on top row to media controls. Added a layer for number-pad. I have it on a USB switch and it works great on my work Mac and my personal Windows gaming PC.
Slightly irritated that my TMK layer numlock doesn’t light up the LED, but that won’t be a problem when the Heavy-9 hides the LEDs!
Would love to get my hands on a 980m hasu and a 980c hasu controller.
FYI on the 980m, the oem pcb supports in switch LEDs for the num lock and caps lock keys. When swapping switches I desoldered the stock LEDS from the indicator row and soldered in off-white LEDS on the lock keys. This will allow me to have lock key indication even with the Heavy-9 housing.
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Just to make sure I understand - there were existing holes on the FC980M PCB that were pre-wired, and you can simply move the LEDs from the stock location to be below the keys themselves? That’s an awesome mod! Any pictures, bychance? 
Any idea of the same mod could be done for the FC980C? I understand it was @norbauer’s design decision to “not support” the LEDs on the Heavy-9, and while I agree its a much better aesthetic - some of my computer usage requires me to know the state of these locks, and I would love the option to have them visible within the Heavy-9 case.
I doubt it, gonna be pretty hard to shine an led through a rubber dome
Well, we do have the wild rotated stem and cut-out dome on the left CTRL on the 87u that causes a nightmare for keycap compatibility
That’s correct. The holes for the lock light LEDs are present on the fc980m PCB when the board is brand new. The holes are filled with solder though, so before you put LEDs in those vacant holes, you’ll want to remove that solder.
Regarding the fc980c. That pcb does not have any extra through hole LED locations. Technically, rgb topre board is possible, realforce r2 rgb demonstrates this. Though additional engineering is required. Realforce r2 rgb boards have clear slider housings with lenses that focus the rgb led around the rubber dome. The domes in rf r2 rgb also have holes in them for the smd leds.
Edit: see my aug 14th post (post #39) on this thread. You can see the stock in switch lock light led locations on that pcb. It is the spots with the white circles.
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Thank you for the extra details, and the additional picture of them installed as well - quite compelling All the more reason to be excited about the FC980M + Heavy-9 compatibility!
As for the FC980C - I wonder if there is some engineered solution involving pieces of clear plastic that route the stock LED light up such that it could be seen underneath the four top-right keys. Ideally it would be subtle, and the plastic itself not visible from the usual viewing angle of the keyboard. Something to brood on, I suppose!
in theory you could use some SMD LEDs that come soldered with wire leads and solder in place and route the LED where ever you want on the board/through plate. Though this is definitely DIY, will require drilling of plate and would be fiddly unless serious thought was used. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pre-soldered-Micro-Wired-Yellow-Available/dp/B07P5MYG1X/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=soldered+smd+led&qid=1604955864&sr=8-2
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I’m happy to report that machining is now complete for both aluminum and stainless. Powder coating starts tomorrow.
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Exciting times Hopefully managing the Heavy-9 and Heavy Grail simultaneously doesn’t present any issues!
Completely switching gears - a recent Instragam post of yours shows some Festool products you are using to build your new desk. Someone made the comment “Festool is the Norbauer of tools” which piqued my interest.
I’m gearing up to build a backyard office, do some minor home renovations, and after that potentially toy with some woodworking projects.As I’m currently tool-less, I thought I might explore what Festool has to offer. Care to geek out on your experiences with Festool thus far? The MFT/3 tables look intriguing 