@mechkeys.tech I usually don’t, I prefer to ship to a US proxy, but I got your PM so I’ll reply soon.
Your replacement plates have shipped out and you should have gotten the tracking via email. Let me know if you have any issues at all.
Thanks guys!
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The drawing was taken from here to check if the Whitefox PCB is compatible with the Kayak, and it seems like it is! The gap between the PCB and the walls of the Kayak is about 1mm on all sides. The USB-C port seems like it would be a bit tighter on the right side of the case tho compared to the left.
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Got it in this morning and already built 
The plate fits into the PCB perfectly. The new plate isn’t quite the same white as the other pieces (it’s a bit grey-er with a smoother texture), but I’ll live. My only real niggle is that the blocker on the top two pieces should be spaced maybe 1.5mm to the right because it’s not perfectly centered; I’m not heart broken over it though. Thanks a bunch!!
If anyone else does this, I recommend lubing the stabilizer wire cutouts. I only did it on my spacebar, but I think I have some roughness on the other keys from not doing it.
I also need to file my screws down because they are slightly too long. lol
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Sorry about the white mis-match. I swear I asked the guys at the acrylics place for the same “white” as before… maybe they got a different batch in. Either way, I apologize about that! It’s something for me to keep my eyes open for going forward.
I did correct the blocker parts for future cases, I didn’t even think that those would be off along with the plate… but it totally makes sense.
For anyone needing laser work from me I have some unfortunate news to report: Shutting down my laser work... at least for now
I have what is likely a dumb question. but I am going to ask it anyways.
Looking at the Tada68 PCB supported bottom rows (https://kbdfans.cn/products/tada68-assembly-services), it appears the following bottom rows are supported:
- 1.5U+1.5U+7U+1U+1U+1U
- 1.5U+1.5U+7U+1.5U+1.5U
- 1.25U+1.25U+1.25U+6.25U+1.5U+1.5U
- default layout. 1.25U+1.25U+1.25U+6.25U+1U+1U+1U
Unless my eyes are deceiving me, the pics in the OP sure looks like
- 1.25U+1.25U+1.25U+6.25U+1.25U+1.25U+.5blocker+1U+1U+1U
Are my eyes deceiving me, or is this actually a supported config on the Tada68 PCB? If Tada68 doesn’t support that, what will?
That is just their assembly service, since they do not have a case with a blocker, they do not assemble it that way. The PCB 100% supports this layout.
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Well damn (both good and bad). I recently ordered a plate with their default bottom row for the Tada68 kit I save sitting in my closet from Laserboost that will support PCB mounted stabs at the spacebar. Looks like it’s time to consider a second build with the bottom row I really want.
I feel like we have already discussed this, but my mind is complete shite (and if we have discussed, I sincerely apologize). Is QMK difficult to configure to pick this config up?
If you are using a TADA68 PCB you are welcome to use the existing Web configurator if QMK is too much for you to figure out.
Although the new QMK configurator sure has made things nicer, the TADA has extra steps in converting the final .hex final into a .bin file.
Really impressed with the work gone into this. I’m currently looking at this for my first mech, primarily because I enjoy the DIY aspect of most things I do, but also because the look of it.
I donated to get access to the files and have started to modify them as required for the local laser cutting services I’ve found online (outline colours, etc), but before sending them off for quotes, I was wondering how far off the v3.1 files are, as I’d prefer to keep it as simple as possible between getting a quote and having it done, as well as any modifications they may request.
Cheers
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I’ve not used QMK before in any capacity, but I need to bite the bullet and figure it out as many of the PCBs I am interested in can be configured using it.
Is using a non-default layout for my first go around with GMK a good idea? Probably not. But I’m really good at pursuing bad ideas 
QMK is amazing. I try to avoid keyboards without it these days.
Using a non-default layout will provide the same challenges on any board. Mainly remembering the layout. It shouldn’t be a problem if its a layout you are already used to and if its not, it will be the same challenge as if you had not used QMK (with the exception that QMK can do more non default stuff if you want to go deeper on that front).
I say go for it.
I probably should have asked this earlier. Does anybody have the QMK config completed for the Tada68 to change it’s layout to support the Canue lbottom row layout with the blocker? I’m trying to figure this out on my own (with the help of some bery nice people), but I’d like to get this done right instead of me doing it
has anyone tried to make this into an iso layout ? I would like to make it that way but would love to know if it is possible with the current design or not before ordering lasercut plates
V3 Includes an iso plate
Can’t figure out what these are for. A replacement to the hex head bolts ?
Has anyone officially tried out the whitefox pcb for this case?
Is that a clear acrylic plate on top of the wood? And another blue acrylic plate beneath the wood?
I can see some blue peeking up around the arrow keys – not from the PCB?
I’m working on one and can let ya know
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It is clear top, engraved wood, blue switch plate, white middle sections, wood bottom.