Standoffs on the base to mount the plate (seen in background) Will probably screw tap to attach the top
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Yeah I was desoldering the Gat Yellows to replace Speed Silvers. I liked those best in the batch that was available to me at that time, but have to concede that they’re too sensitive for me.
I dreaded desoldering 2 boards so much that I convinced myself that they are fine. But constant accidental actuations were actually not.
Glad I got it over with.
What plate are you using with your KBD8x MKII and what stabs?
I’m also curious about switches used and your take on the plate/switch combo.
I’m about to build mine with alpacas and have both brass and PC plate, will do gummyworm mod and also plan on using KbdFans case foam (as well as plate foam).
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Sure; I hope I can be helpful. I’m using the brass full plate with Durock screw-in stabilizers. Re-tooled Blacks, lubed and filmed. Overall I think it’s a good combo.
EDIT:
I will say that I think the polycarbonate plate would have probably provided a deeper thock. My personal opinion is that the brass plate with linears may be a little on the weak side as far as sound goes. But again that is all preference.
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Modded my decade old Filco to use a USB-C connector. Learned the hard way that the breakout board needs some pins shorted in order to support direction independency (if it’s called that). But happy it worked out at the end, even if I had to tear apart the sugru (clone).
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Okay I got one build down and one to go!
Well… until the next two arrive 
I have some more inks to lube, but excitingly, some of the new Ink Kangaroo switches too! Planning on releasing force curve graphs for that soonish? (Before the end of the month)
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Got a practice solder kit. Getting better every time I try! I’m feeling a lot more confident. Even successfully desoldered and re-soldered a joint with my solder sucker. (Struggled with that last time) Going to finish this practice kit and work my way up to one of the boards I got waiting on me.
Also, I got an iron holder, and my small TS100 was way to small to sit in it. So that was pointless. Haha.
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My dad suggested I attach a small metal folding clip to the indented section of the TS100 tip, kind of closer to the body. It works pretty great - if I remember I’ll send an image when I get home this weekend.
Edit: one of these, pretty small. Doesn’t get hot enough to burn anything and rotates freely.
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Brilliant. Going to try it.
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Nice. Very nice. I don’t have a dedicated space, so this one is a little harder for me. Love that ingenuity tho!
Reworking a Leopold, with a mill-maxed pcb from anykeys.eu and other modding.
Currently, trying the polished mx blacks (see the donpark ball method) in it.
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That’s really cool. Was the PCB custom designed or is it a stocked item on their store? What size mill-max did you use?
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Evy makes these pcb’s – sometimes they are in stock or he might have them anyway, you can DM him to ask.
I used the short ones, they look really good IMO in this thick PCB:
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Didn’t take any pics, but finally got through a good bit of the desoldering jobs I’ve been procrastinating on. Got the HP’s out my brass plate setup for my E6.5, pulled the Zykos out of an XD60v3 PCB so I can use it for an ALPS build, & finally took the MOD-Ms out of my old Sentraq S60 that I had sitting in pieces. I still got an old Chicony I need to take the vintage MX whites out of, but after almost 200 switches with a bulb pump desoldering iron & a big ass blister on my hand from pumping it I figured that was good enough for one day, LOL!
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This. This was my keyboard chore
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Can’t sleep, I’m going for it! After this all my current desoldering plans will be finished. Think I’m gonna rebuild it with some KS3 Gat yellows once I grab a batch.
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Nice work!
Is that your own CNC router ?
I’d love to have one of these beasts at home to play with 
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So would I. This is actually a local shop
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