Ouch, can that be fixed with a second exposure? Can you take some clearer shots ? Thanks !
Might give it a second try tomorrow, and it’s not really bubbles. It is more like a crater and that’s what makes the three dots to the right on the top one.
Tried polishing a few MT3 Serika caps and I wasn’t able to get any shine out of them. They came out decently smooth but that textured top just didn’t want to polish. I am sure with enough work, you might be able to get a bit of a shine but I didn’t want to risk damaging the caps.
I did do another light polish on the Susuwatari caps and they just feel so smooth and do have a pretty nice shine to them. On another note, I did see last night that we might see KAM Little Pilot going out hopefully soon. I think those might take the crown of shiny caps. Can’t wait to get those mounted!
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Interesting how you weren’t able to get the MT3 Serika to shine, but I guess then again those are PBT unlike Susuwatari which is ABS.
Can’t wait to see your KAM Little Pilot keycaps all nice and shiny 
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I wonder how long before the surface is stable and touchable, after the exposure to the acetone vapors?..
I want to say 5sek, definitely below 30sek.
Hmm, guess it’s best to go for that. 
Internet has been down most of today so I decided to utilize the time to polish all the sides and the top a second time on the Susuwatari. Took me about 4 hours but I think it was well worth it. Here are a couple pics I captured tonight. I’ll try and get better ones when it’s not dark out.
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Dammit. Well done. Looking sharp.
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Thanks!
Here’s one at the office. Best I could do with how dark, cloudy, and snowy it is outside lol
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wow that came out great! any tips for getting a consistant level of shine? or not getting bubbles?
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What I did is I used a dremel with a polishing wheel at speed 2 and I hit each side 4 times. After the dremel, I wiped them down thoroughly with a microfiber polishing cloth. I also used Mcguires Plastic Polish that seemed to work pretty well.
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Me at the thought of taking a dremel to my keycaps
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I’ve been meaning to post about this but I’ve been experimenting with shellac on GMK/SP ABS keycaps. You basically use a thin coat (perhaps 1/4lb cut) of dewaxed blonde shellac. It’s very scratch resistant and for most colors it will be nearly indistinguishable from the original.
The main concern is that when you want to remove the coating you have to use some type of solvent. I had success using chilled 190 proof ethanol (Everclear). From my research ethanol will eventually damage ABS but I haven’t run into any issues unless I completely submerge ABS in ethanol for a couple of days. I am actually going to try it out on Metaverse R2 and see how it holds up over daily use.
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I really want to pick up a set of susuwatari for my own shiny adventures
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Can you please elaborate on your technique, and what paste did you use? Was it the diamond paste?
Did you use a dremel?
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What if I were to sandblast pad-printed ABS? If it cleanly sweeps the markings I might actually do it because some of the labels don’t match…
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