Looks great & if it’s anything like my Frog 8k I bet it feels great too (I’m running UHMknowns in mine which are basically oil kings with UHMWPE stems)! About the half plate, it does introduce a bit of inconsistency to sound & feel between the plated & non plated switches. Basically you sacrifice a little consistency for the softer feel & more muted sound on the alphas, definitely not everyone’s cup of tea. You may find straight plateless better, although it will still have that more muted sound across the whole board. The plate basically creates a mini sound chamber between it & the PCB is why plateless keys sound more muted & dead I think.
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I haven’t seen Zorro switches in forever, you’re a trooper for running them stock!
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What kind of plate configuration are you using in your Frog 8k? I have an older run of the Frog TKL in burgundy, with oil kings on full PC and the sound is delightfully clacky! But yeah, the HHKB mini definitely has that same Frog ‘feel’ to it! I just love the lower front profile on these. Real nice for me to type on.
I’ll note that this mini is B stock, but there is literally no blemish on it whatsoever. Enough cannot be said for Geon’s QC.
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I’m running the stock full alum plate, it’s the only one available for the 8k unfortunately. Although it really does pair well with the board & tadpole system. Been waiting for the plate files to release cause I’d love a PC plate for this & what you said just reinforces that! Mine has a pretty clacky sound to it also, but probably a little bit louder than yours as the alum is more resonant. As for Geon’s QC, I definitely agree! I went for an A stock 8k & it was the A stockiest A stock board I’ve ever seen LOL! Like not only is the unit unblemished, the anno is seriously perfect like Noxary levels (I know bad name to bring up, but dudes boards did have amazing anno), I can’t even find the hook marks on the inside of the case! I’d be willing to bet Geons B stock is better than some other’s A stock.
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Wow, that’s perfect.
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Baion Gehirn OBJ.1
WT60-C PCB with Gateron Minis CF half plate from Carolina Mech
LeleLab Crystal SuperX Smoke Frosted caps. Going to experiment with some different builds when I get the chance
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Very cool board. I had never heard of it. Love the creative approach and details of this case.
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Yeah, I hadn’t heard of Baion until Jae built a Bias on stream earlier this year. Very excited about what theyre doing though, I really like the experimental approach to finishes, there are some different ones coming soon afaik!
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Not mention the unique mounting systems Baion is tinkering with & the lovely Baion wave in the bottom of the case for sound refinement. I wanted to get a Bias so bad, but didn’t have the extra loot for one when they were in GB. Hopefully there will a Rd.2 sooner than later!
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Sugar65, Akko Lavendar Purples (+Holy Pandas) GMK Classic blue clones (main kbd)
GMK67, Akko Cream Blue Pros, GMK Wavez clones
GKS68, Akko Cream Yellows V3, XVX Pulse keycaps
slightly modded but otherwise stock Ducky One 3 SF (would not reccomend for the price)
RK61, akko Jelly Blues, Pudding PBT keycaps
($60 + 20 + 20) Sugar65 (kit) Alu case FR4 plate, knob, gasket mount, good stock stabilisers
($40 + 20 + 20) GMK67 (kit) Plastic Case, PC plate, knob, Gasket mount
($20 + 20 + 20) GKS68 (kit) Plastic Case, PC plate,
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Hey welcome to KT, nice collection you got going! Which one is you fav so far?
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Here is the keyboard that I’m currently typing on - it’s a Televideo DEC-style keyboard, that uses Linear Space Invaders! I got this keyboard new-old-stock from VintKeys (who still has some leftover from a GB of 2000 NOS keyboards found in Germany), and it types pretty well! Nice and smooth, and with a nice sound too - and this is without lubing the switches.
EDIT: If you have one of these keyboards too and want to get them working on a modern computer; I’ve seen them come with PS/2 (Mini-DIN) plugs and what looks like phone/networking jacks (the keyboard I have is the Mini-DIN version) - but they don’t speak the AT or PS/2 protocol that would work with a standard converter, and converters with the “Soarer’s Converter” firmware don’t seem to work on this out-of-the-box.
You can either make your own converter with a Pro Micro/Teensy and Purdeaandrei’s fork of QMK/Vial; or if you don’t have that experience/skill yet, the converter that I’m using with this keyboard is one of Tinkerboy’s newer converters that also come with QMK/Vial. I’ll share links to each below.
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Those are some very pleasant looking boards, thanks for sharing.
Since you have a Sugar65 and a GMK67, can you describe what the differences are, apart from the case material? Is the software different? Why don’t the makers of these boards just use VIA? (The last is rhetorical, I just always have that question in my mind.)
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definately the SUGAR65. by far the best followed by the GMK67
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so thesugar65 feels much more stiff which may be a turnoff but it also sounds much better this is because of the FR4 plate. the sugar also has a lot more included dampening material but it also has no feet or BT/2.4 there (from my knowledge) is no software for the sugar65 unlike the gmk which is disappointing but in my opinion its worth the tradeoff
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Finished this yesterday, JJW Cloudline with SKCL Yellow on POM:
Sound test: https://youtu.be/SaNGW9aYaMo
I’m not surprised by the sound profile but I am a bit disappointed. It feels fine to type on but it has a very thin, quiet sound. The case has very little internal volume, not the best choice for a modern Alps TKL.
It sure looks nice though!
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Interesting combo! How’s the typing feel?
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A new keyboard design using MTNU keycaps and Kailh Choc V2 low profile switches (slightly modified to work with the keycaps). I’m trying to keep things low and with a retro look. First test is a numpad, a matching TKL version will probably follow.
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I totally dig your view about how mechanical keyboards should be. This certainly would prevent repetitive strain injury (RSI) with many. Your build has some visual semblance with the Qisan Magicforce boards, but then better.
With today’s technology, thicker mechanical keyboards are completely unnecessary. Many thick keyboards turn out to be resonant sound boxes that one needs to tame with foam inlays etc. to obtain a better “thock”.
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