I second this. 
It’s a very nice touch. You ship a fine product and you really take care of all the details with grace, @norbauer.
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Received a motorsport case today. Norbauer never fails to amaze me. What a work of art. Can’t wait for a FC660C to arrive in the mail so I can get it all dialed in.
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@norbauer Is it normal for some of the black coating to rub off when waxing the keyboard and using a towel to rub the wax away? I saw some of the towel come away black after I rubbed the Monolith. Wondering if it was residue or actually part of the coat.
Awesome looking board!
What keycaps do you use?
Factory leopold caps from two keyboards. Alphas are from the beige/grey fc660c. Mods are from the white on black fc660c. I originally wanted to get Novatouch sliders to put GMK Monochrome on it but I feel much better sticking with the factory sliders.
I haven’t experienced this myself, but I wouldn’t be concerned unless the actual finish appears to be coming off of the keyboard itself rather than just leaving the towel darker. If it is, of course, please let me know and I’ll talk to the PVD factory, but what your seeing might just be some dust/residue in the wax from the factory where the final wax finish was applied. I have noticed that sometimes even on silver anodized keyboards, for example, if I wipe them down with a towel and IPA, the towel will sometimes come off looking darker, and in that case since no black finish was used it’s clearly not the finish coming off. I have always assumed this is just “factory residue” from the dusty places where these things tend to be machined assembled.
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edit: above question was along the lines of “why mount the plate to the case before adding the PCB to it/assembling fully”
The plate screws into the PCB. I found the easiest way to assemble this was to screw the plate into the case first and make any modifications you want after that, with the plate already mounted solidly on the case.
This confers a variety of benefits - namely, you are much less likely to accidentally move the plate around because it is now one with the heavy 7lb case. Also, bezel of the case gives you a bit more room to “hook” it onto the boxes or platforms on either side, further reducing the room for error (where normally I’ve had the steel plate slip off of the boxes before and ruin all of the work put into assembly).
They’re from Blizzardmods - he does raffles once in a while, although I bought them off another user on mechmarket.
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It’s done! And boy howdy is this sucker heavy. Norbauer wasn’t lying. The packaging and presentation was impeccable, far nicer than anything I’ve ever gotten before in this hobby.
I didn’t feel the need to wax it, it looked great with just a wipe down.
It took me and my boy half a day to take apart his FC660c, install silencing rings and lube the rails. He did most of the work. It’s a shared-custody board. He’s also responsible for the bling artisan-type stuff on it because he’s way into it. (Myself, not so much).
Anyway, it’s a great case! This exceeded my expectations. I’m so happy I got in on this.
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FIVE HOURS
IT TOOK FIVE HOURS AND MY BACK HURTS
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Don’t be a whiner. It was totally worth it. Also, ur weak. Lift moar.
And, you know what? The Norbauer bag is fucking awesome. There’s leather in all the right places. Padding where there needs to be. Small touches that scream quality.
I am starting to get why women love handbags.
I’m kind of bewildered by the Molle loops. But, I guess I could hang some mag pouches or something. I’ve got those, plus extra bullshit. Inner pocket for the SK, I guess. I haven’t tried fitting that yet. Might not work.
Anyway, that’s one hell of a nerd purse.
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It gets easier with time. The Heavy-6 must have been my 5th or 6th FC660C disassembly and I was done in an hour.
Mainly, I’d suggest
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Get rid of the screws super fast (a magnetic screwdriver helps here). Just go at it. Don’t think. See a screw? It’s going out
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When applying domes, you don’t need to get them perfect on first insertion. You can shave a good chunk of time if they are just kinda sorta aligned (and then you can push them in later)
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When applying springs, just drop them into the domes. A magnetic screwdriver helps quickly pick up the springs
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Finally, when all domes and springs are in, now you can spend time aligning them to perfection
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I’d suggest lubing the actual PCB as this implicitly lubes the springs, quietens the board, and keeps everything in place/from sliding around once everything is assembled
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A magnetic screwdriver really helps speed up the process of putting everything back together again
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For what it’s worth, the biggest time suck was taking the backing off the teeny tiny rubber upstroke silencers and applying them.
These things are the devil.
And since there were aftermarket domes (BKE Redux Heavies) the silencers were absolutely necessary. Like, totally non-negotiable. I’m not complaining, I’m very happy they were available. This thing would sound like a jack-hammer without them.
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When I saw your board I immediately ordered a Heavy-6 in Aperture and the blue/grey FC660C, even though I already have a black FC660C 
Case came today and it’s awesome, keeb comes tomorrow. Do you have a recommendation on which sorbothane to buy? (thickness, source)