Given the size of the bezels on the AEK (and Model M), thatâs a proportionate distance for a gap. It might look odd if it were closer? Functionally though I get why it would mess you up. I didnât think having a 1.5u backspace where the pipe normally goes would mess me up, but it REALLY did.
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https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/solid-wood-keyboard-vintage-oberhofer-1854470225
Went looking for these thanks to a recent LGR video. Neat.
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White Alps BAE board in a solid wood case. Looks like I âaccidentally a Luxury!â Mine even has 6kro!
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Perhaps you could send an email to the customer service for assistance.
The glitter65 HE I bought was confirmed by the customer service that there would be no customs duties. Moreover, they kindly gave me an extra set of keycaps as a gift.
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The Neo80 and Evo80 I ordered from them arrived sans any tariffs/duties, that I had to pay anyway.
If youâre concerned, Divinikey looks to be selling the Neo80 Cu starting in a few days.
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As someone with a Neo80, that seems like a very interesting board.
The videos posted with MX Browns and similar switches imply a crisp, but somewhat flexy experience [if using flex-cut alum. plate or PP.]
The original Neo80 has a somewhat stiff typing experience - 1.6mm non-flex-cut PCB, perhaps adding a positioning film.
I wonder if the Neo80 cu would be better in that regard for tactiles. It has top-mount option, which is better, although the gasket mounting will give better sound. Neo80 cu is giving a lot for what it is, and I like the typing angle.
But itâs not an impulse purchase for most people.
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Being the recent purchaser of a discount GMMK Pro, I was poking around their site and the vintage nerd in me found it interesting that theyâre trying to bring back slider-over-dome.
See the template strip to be laid on top of the forehead. It was meant to be labeled by the user for their most commonly used applications.
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I definitely remember these. I had some for Illustrator, Photoshop, and QuarkXPress.
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Heck, as somebody who rotates boards a lot and has some battle-cruisers, I still find them useful from time to time.
They are also the reason for the Shift/Ctrl/Alt color coding on the legends of some vintage boards (particularly Focusâs stuff).
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I put a set of Signature Plastic, Grand Budapest keycaps on both stabies and TX AP stabilizers. The space bar is fine, but the backspace, return, and left shift all seesaw quite a bit if press firmly. I donât actually hit the keys hard enough to cause them to tip when I type, but they seem more precariously balanced than other profiles. Has anyone else noticed this?
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Yes abs SA from Signature Plastics usually fits pretty loose. Most of my stabilized keys need Teflon tape to keep them acting right.
When theyâre loose and you press on one side more, it pops the other up off the stabilizer stem.
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Looks like they expect to deliver a real product around Summer of 2026. I do think itâs cool, but Iâll definitely wait and see how it pans out when customers start getting their hands on it.
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Frankly speaking, the board gives me major â90s crystal figurines collector vibes.
I would also assume that itâll be very hard to keep it in shape, aesthetically. Iâm thinking dust, smudges and possibly even scratches. Sound is also something for which I wouldnât have high hopes for in a board like this. And last but not least, I could imagine that lighting conditions will have a great impact on legibility and eye-strain, even without taking into account all the accessibility issues this keyboard will likely have.
Tl;dr: It feels like a board that only works in very specific conditions; In a room thatâs not too humid/warm or dusty, that is not too brightly lit or too dim, and operated by a perfectly healthy individual without movement disorders or impaired eyesight.
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LOL MX hotswap sockets with an HE switch gotta be up there for one of the most iconic duos.
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