For the first time in ages, I’m finally down to waiting for only 2 keyboards and 2 keycap sets 
, all of which should be fulfilled soon-ish hopefully.
8xv 3.0, Geist, GMK Seafarer, GMK Tuzi
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SA 8010 just shipped after 21 months! That leaves me with just SA Spectra and the Command65 outstanding.
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Not much left on my list compared to previous years. I am finally slowing down… I think.
KAM Soaring Skies
Hineybush Ladybird
Barca 40% Case
DCS Input
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My list has gotten very short. Just GMK Tuzi and the Keystone TLK. I don’t ever expect to receive the Keystone at this point, so am thinking of buying a TLK in Jan/Feb to replace a Logitech full-size at work. Also need to think about keyboards for the ONI and Shoko keycaps that finally arrived.
As a side note - now that GMK has taken to doing multicolored or complex novelties with surface-printing, I wonder if they’ll ever even attempt double-shot keys with legends this complicated again.
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I’m pretty sure they just printed those since the line thickness appears to be smaller than the minimum for doubleshot plastic (0.3mm).
That same document also says they’ll only do 2 colors of plastic and if you want another legend color it has to be printed, but I’m fairly certain they’re talking about 2 legend colors on the same cap like GMK TA Royal Alpha.
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Waiting on some Drop + MiTo MT3 Cyber caps. This will be my first time trying the MT3 profile on a set of caps, should be interesting.
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I thought you might be right there, but they are double shot after all:
Honestly I am kind of amazed they even did it in the first place, and for pretty much the same price as any other GMK set. I wouldn’t be surprised if they did this and thought, yeah, no, we’re not doing that again
I think they came out awesome, though:
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Well, it’s not that different from the Novelties they do for all the kits. 
The Cream Yellow is actually a very impressive silent switch. For about 25 USD, you can get 90-110 shipped to you.
It’s clearly inspired by the U4 Boba, but a little less tactile.
Will you be lubing yours? Part of their appeal to me is that you can probably get away with unlubed.
This is my first build so I’ll lube them just for the sake of practice. What I’m unsure of whether I should clean all the factory lubing, which of there is quite lightly, but it’s still visible. I wouldn’t want to overlube them but since I don’t have experience in lubing, it’s hard for me to estimate the amount of under and overlubing.
That is an interesting conundrum, and I’m not sure what the answer is.
On the previous OUTEMU Silent Lime switches, it was beneficial to lube the springs, as they were deficient in lube.
The Silent Cream Yellow springs have better lube, but maybe it would further benefit from user-lubing.
It’s hard to say what to lube on the Cream Yellow, as it’s not a particularly noisy switch, and not very gritty. Maybe just keep factory lube, and apply lube to leaf-area and springs?
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Yea something light will do fine.
I’ve got 105 for the springs and 205g0 for leaf area.
Do you recon it’s worth washing the factory lubes away before applying the new? I have no idea what lubes they use at the factory.
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Washing away lubes is typically seen as an extreme measure.
It is usually only done for exotic switches that are unavailable as unlubed, where the factory lube is seen as deficient, and/or highly-specific lubing methods are desired.
Otherwise, people mostly lube over mediocre factory lube. If the lube was ‘done wrong’ at factory, people want to correct it. But I don’t see evidence of that with Cream Yellow. Standard practice would be to lube over factory. That’s what was done to the Silent Lime in my relatives’ keyboards. Worked fine. Didn’t even use heavy lube, just moderate 3204 in standard tactile lubing pattern [Ergo Clear or T1].
Maybe someone can correct me if I’m missing anything here. But since Cream Yellow has a decent, light coat of factory lube, you should be able to just lube over it.
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This is the consensus I see regarding lube, just go over it, but wouldn’t it possibly prevent the lube you’re applying from sticking to surfaces? or at least slide off over time?
Probably negligible with boards you use but I think about people with several boards lubing with something like 205g0 that is known to get seperated over time.
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If you want perfect linears with highly-consistent lube, yes, you could remove factory lube and apply 205g0. There are people who do that.
Most don’t require that standard over time.
I thought that most lube just sort of combines. I mean, there are many combination lubes involving different types. Maybe that’s less the case with 205g0, though. But 205g0/105g0 is a common combination.
I haven’t read any sort of primer explaining the chemistry at work here, so I don’t know, sorry.
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At very least I know it’s fine to mix any of the Krytox stuff together. I have seen some lubes “compete” - ie some cheap leftover factory grease caused oil to bead on top of it and slide off more easily - but let’s say you’ve got some Silks or something else you know already has Krytox on it, applying any other Krytox on top of that shouldn’t cause any shenanigans like that.
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All Krytox blends separate over time (regardless of the marketing) – sadly the oil won’t stay suspended forever. As far as I understand it, the PTFE component is the heavy lifter in the mix, and if it gets deposited on the parts that matter, even if the lube goes dry, it will still do it’s job. And of course long-term, the plastic surfaces should be worn smooth enough to not need the lube at all.
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Not that I’ve attempted to make a list yet in this thread (well, attempted to face my purchase shame), but my relatively short wait (about 4.5 months) is over for this bad boy.
I’m very interested to see how the bage/weight turned out. It’s brass, but instead of hand polishing it and then PVD coating, it’s shiny from an electroplating process (maybe a post plating buff as well).
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