Received G80 3484 HKCUS with smooth Cherry brown and Cherry WoB. Here is a picture of the latter on my _33 - ironically I received this in the mail on the same day.
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[ children_yay.wav ]
It’s not my birthday, but close enough. It’s Halloween, my furlough ended, AND I have some thicc keycaps to enjoy. woo!
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I love how these turned out from the pics. Font is great, thickness is awesome, surface seems nice.
Fun fact, I canceled 2 base sets and lots of child kits of Susuwatari 1 month before they finally shipped 
I have a full plastic box of dev tty kits to cover any layout I may ever need
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You’ve convinced me to seek out a Novatouch to mount my Cafe onto 
looks great!
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GMK Finer Things on a Keydous NJ68 that I’m giving to my sister as a birthday present (she’s a fan of Tiffany Blue). It’s a surprise but I will be asking her about the novelties after I give it to her – I have a feeling we might end up just using the Return and Escape ones.
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Creams have arrived from KBDFans. Going to be a long journey breaking these in for Pacos. Also got MX clears to make Ergo Clears. I’m determined to find my favourite MX switch for my U-80 next year, before offloading the rest of my MX keyboard stuff to go full-topre.
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do they smell?
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Yep LOL, I couldn’t believe it. Fishy!
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I do love those “top-hat” style Apple II caps. I’d love to see a modern interpretation of those, or a new board with a slightly different layout built with the old caps.
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Mail day! Silicone mold kit and weights for a case, idea was from this post: Poured and custom fit silicone dampener.
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Vulkan x KBDfans Maja. Its the blue anodized finish but under warmer lighting it can look a little green (its proven hard to color correct for…). I would say its more of a blue grey if anything. Brass plate and bottom weight. The finish on the brass is different… Like a bead blasted texture but very smooth to the touch.
Using lubed T1s, the typing feel is rigid with no damping to the tactility. Its a top mount plate with pre cut plate foam, using standoffs installed on the PCB to align the foam and sandwich the plate and PCB (very similar to the U80-A). There is also a bottom neoprene/foam layer with cutouts for the hotswap sockets.
Once its all assembled and the screws are tightened down, the bottom housing actually compresses against the bottom foam layer, squeezing everything together. This means there is little to no flex to be found here.
Sound is good, no hollowness or pinging. The heft from the case and a very small interior cavity no doubt helps.
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oooooh that looks really nice! +1 for my favorite keyset
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Love it. Great combo
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A couple extra TS100 tips, one for Holtite / Milmax sockets and one for very wee things - and some Testor’s Liquid Cement for some experimenting with jailhouse blues.
Edit: you can install Milmax sockets with a similar method to Holtites, using the iron directly - however there is a much higher risk of damaging pads with them vs the Holtites if the board is de-soldered. Guess how I know. 
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My new P3D Keebio Sinc case just arrived. I’ll be building this up with with Silent Gat Ink’s (68g Boba springs – #reuseRecycle) and for the first go around, GMK Metropolis.
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