Got a gummy o ring to try on my wooting from thockpop.
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This is all a culmination of stuff from the past few days. When it rains, it pours!
- GMK Olive R2
- GMK Terror Below + Novelties
- Hibi All Sorts tray (& stickers!!)
- NK Cream V1’s
- Sarokeys x BSUN BCPs
- wilba.tech WT60-C “Kate” PCB
- Carolina Mech CF 60% half-plate
'Bouta be a GOOOOOOD weekend!!! 
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oh lord. that’s a lot of options
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Just a bit, to make it worse you have to get 10 sets to make all of them since for some reason the PC housings you only get 5 of each while everything else has 10
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Gateron Azure Dragon V3’s 
from HippoKeys! 
Specs
- Tactile
- Top Housing: Polycarbonate (Condenser light effection structure has a new frosted, light-guided surface to make the backlight brighter) and more consistent
- Bottom Housing: POM
- Stem: POM
- Spring: 18mm Two-Stage
- Pre Travel: 2mm
- Total Travel: 3.6mm
- Operating Force: 63g
- Bottom Out Force: 67g
- 5-Pin, PCB Mount (Pins are made made more stable by implementing a triple-layer structure while still being compatible with hot-swap sockets)
- Lubed
Comparison to Gateron Baby Kangaroos
BK Specs
- Tactile
- Top Housing: Polycarbonate (Highly transparent cover with condenser light affection)
- Bottom Housing: Nylon PA66 (“Milky”)
- Stem: POM
- Spring: 22mm Two-Stage
- Pre-Travel: 2.0±0.5mm
- Total Travel: 3.4mm
- Operating Force: 59±8g
- 5-Pin, PCB Mount
- Lightly Lubed
In hand, the Azure Dragons definitely feel heavier than the Baby Kangas. The Kangas are a bit higher pitched and clackier. Both feel pretty well lubed from the factory. You can definitely see the difference between what Gateron calls “Lubed” and “Lightly Lubed.”
Now to find a board to try them out in… 
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Is this just a reworked mold for them? I have a set of V2s in my board im building and really like them.
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From Divinikey’s site:
-
V3 Changes:
-
Condenser light effection structure has a new frosted, light-guided surface to make the backlight brighter and more consistent
-
Pins are made made more stable by implementing a triple-layer structure while still being compatible with hot-swap sockets
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Got my CRP Rd.5 set in! So glad I went with the Tulip alphas, they have such unique look with the set being mostly beige then also having the few keys with the colorful sub legends. Had to reference a picture to make sure I got the caps in the right place, but I had to swap around the . ; key with the ? , key cause having the ? right next to M was driving me crazy LOL! Overall I am really happy with the caps. Definitely a nice step above ePBT on the legends, feel & sound are about the same though (with new & OG ePBT IMO). Big bonus for having proper R5 keys available!
All in all I do see why these have got the crown for PBT caps, although honestly the improvements over other PBT caps is all in the dye sub work & wider compatibility. Do not expect these to feel or sound any different from other thick PBT caps.
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really glad to hear this. I have a ton of beige PBT sets and I’ve been kicking myself wondering if I should buy this one. Glad to know I not missing out of something that’s night and day different. I had suspected, but it’s good to get confirmation. The only set I have that seems better in all regards is my very old set of ePBT from 2015. The caps are heavier, thicker, feel nicer to the touch, and the space bars are straighter. I don’t know what blanks they are, but they are really different compared to anything else I’ve bought since.
went and looked it up, apparently they were Gateron blanks that ePBT dyesubbed:
That was my first ever keycap group buy! ha!
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Yeah I had the same feelings about CRP sets, that’s why I waited all the way up till now to grab a set. I knew they were definitely high quality but I figured they can’t be all that different from other thick PBT caps. OG ePBT are some mean caps though, they definitely belong in the top 5 list of best PBT keycaps (BSP PBT caps are the only ones off the top of head I can think of that were better TBH). I don’t have a caliper handy but just from comparing them to CRP by eye they look to be slightly thicker (like 1.6 or 1.7mm) & the dye sub work is much better than current ePBT sets IMO. Weird thing there is I think Gateron still produces those awesome PBT blanks, but they are hard to find since blanks don’t sell to well compared all the wild & colorful sets available nowadays.
Make me wonder what happened with ePBT to go so far downhill quality wise in just a few years? The blanks they use now are of much lesser quality than the Gateron onnes they used to use (I remember seeing people get sets with warped shifts & enters they were so bad after the change). Then they had to make some cost cutting changes to their dye sub process cause the legends are noticeably more defined & more colorful on the OG sets compared to a modern ePBT set (I’m comparing the Hangul sets with red sub legends). It’s a shame, but thankfully Hammer picked up the torch with CRP. So we still have a source for ultra high quality dye subbing.
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The thing I most noticed about the change when ePBT switched from Gateron was the plastic. It was night and day difference. There’s no way they use the same kind of plastic. The old caps were so much more dense.
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CRP sound is subtly distinct. It’s slightly thicker and cleaner than that of ePBT. XMI sound is also thick but not as clean to me. I suspect thicker sound comes from plastic thickness and cleanness from quality of plastic used.
But I think CRP’s best feature is its distinct matt-yet-smooth texture. It feels better.
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You know I’m fairly desensitized to the texture of keycaps since my fingertips get beat to death at work. Although since I read your comment I did some switching back & forth between CRP, OG ePBT, new ePBT, IFK, NK’s PBT, GeekArk PBT, Varmilo PBT, & even some old Ducky PBT caps just to see what the difference would be to me. Well I gotta agree CRP does have a more “special feel” than the others. Although while I do find they have nice balance on the texturing the whole keypress feels a tad bit smoother with CRP to me. Not sure if that has anything to do with the texture of the underside of the caps but I don’t think so. As GeekArk PBT caps are easily the smoothest of the lot to the touch, but do not have that smoother feel on the keystroke that CRP has. Maybe CRP has smaller stems or something as the feeling doesn’t make sense since the smoothness of the keypress should be almost exclusively down to the switches? It’s kinda vague & weird, but I am for sure feeling a small difference in the smoothness of the keystroke…
Edit: I should mention I tested all the caps on the same board with the same switches (Thermal +, hand lubed + filmed new Nixies).
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Aside from acoustics, I think keycap texture, at least the top surface, and edge roundedness are something that people can notice and form opinion on about. I hand-polished XMI keysets just to my liking for this reason.
In keycap texture, smoothness is just one aspect of it. Depending on how the surface is polished, keycaps feel can vary in many different ways. I polished my XMI keysets to be slightly warmer than CRP and ePBT. There is also direction. CRP texture gain is smoother N/S than E/W such that rubbing fingertip left an right sort of sticks like NK Cream.
As described above, it’s a whole new rabbit hole. But polishing keycap is messy and difficult to do because there are so many keycaps and their shape is difficult to hold on to while polishing. After polishing 4 full sets, I am now hesitant to get another XMI keyset it’s so tiring.
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Got a 2 pack of the regular sized JTK trays from Divinikey in today. Not gonna waste the bandwidth on a pic as we all know what they look like LOL! I got them to hold my CRP set as I didn’t know they finally added packaging with trays & was expecting my CRP order in bags SP style. Although it still worked out, I was finally able to get all my GMK child kits into trays & out of the small tater trays they have always come in! I was keeping child kits that didn’t fit in a set’s main tray in their packaging & storing them them under the tray in the bandolier. Definitely not the best solution… 
Thats nice, although any reason you went with those trays over the pbtfan ones?
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I already have a bunch of JTK trays & they stack on each other so that’s why I’ve been sticking with them.
Oh thats totally fair, im the same but with the pbt fan trays >.> Although i use mine for the odd packaging that doesnt fit in my bookshelf. So like any dcx sets. The child kits i just put in the kinetic labs ones since those i have multiole kits
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