I never thought I would be one to like the short travel but it is just ever so slightly shorter it just feels snappier to me.
I think the obvious solution is to only powder coat the top case. The sides look dope. The top and sides were often different colors back in the day, especially bent steel keyboards like the Kaypro.
That’s how I did the R1 version. I’m thinking I’ll go with raw steel once my GMK nuclear data set gets here. If that doesn’t look badass, I’ll go with painting the top
This two tone look is incredible!
The IG post from when I first built it. The way the LEDs shine out the bottom is insane.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CUK0vtYAudT/?igsh=MWRkM2g1bm5qdDk4eg==
I’m thinking International Orange for the top and steel on the sides. That might be amazing.
Finally got a artisan cap to go with Mictlan! Really digging this Omega sculpt from Raw Studios, it’s the same sculpt as the chainsaw one I got from them. Also some banging stickers!
Today I got my first MT3 keycap set, the /dev/tty one and it’s fantastic so far, I thought the sculpture and height would cause off-center scratchiness/jamming but I’m pleasently supried.
(stock photo because I’m lazy today)
It feels pretty natural to type on, the curves on the keycaps really makes the typing experience really nice, I might need to get used to the small surface area on the top but it’s quite good, I’ll defenitly get another set in the future.
And the sound is pretty nice, sounds deep and low, it’s a PBT version, also interesting enough it makes most keys in the same row sound the same, I know many people strive for that, I presonally less fond of that but I don’t really mind.
Only downside is the lettering, on most keycaps it’s fine, pretty sharp for dye sub but some keycaps are noticably off center, my ‘5’ and ‘6’ are quite noticablely on leaning on the right side of the keycap, not a deal breaker but I would have prefered them centered.
Edit: I would add about the texture, a bit grainy, it’s nice, but for some reason only the top surface is textured, the sides are very smooth, I think it would have been better if the entire keycap was textured.
Got some more supplies from Divinikey in today. A set of TX AP screw in stabs, a set of TX AP clip in stabs, 2 packs of Geon’s poron switch films (one in black & one in white), & 2 more packs of Geon’s 50g 18mm springs. Really been loving Geon’s building supplies, everything I have used from him has been top notch. My man is truly a blessing for the hobby!
Got a Feker IK105 Plus today, just for the Feker Magnolia Switches, which were not available separately at the time when i ordered it. Supposedly POM top and bottom housing with a TPS material Stem. I’m not sure if it’s the actual TPS material, or just a proprietary blend which they decided to call TPS, but they are quite nice. At least in the original board. They don’t really want to mount in any of my other boards without excessive force so i haven’t tested them in other boards yet. Also not sure who made them or what makes TPS special in switches.
Technically via email, but won one of the Keycult automated drawings - passed on it though, only option left is the TKL variant and I hate the color…also won the raffle for the Supermassive variant of the Event Horizon.
Dude, these pictures are right here at the top. My photos)
**Silent switch **
LCET Dreamsea
Shaft type: 5 pin linear switch
Material: POK POM
Mechanical life: about 50 million times
Working force: 35±5gs
Conduction stroke: 2.0±0.2mm
Overall stroke: 3.6±0.2mm
Semi-silence. There is sound at the top.
According to the schedule they write as 3.6mm
BUT I measured it as 4.0 lol) and the stem is short, and the stroke with keycap is 4.
There is lubricant on them.
There were no problems taking it apart. Didn't break anything.
I take my words back. I broke everything((((
Under the spoiler.
The second pack of 71 pieces also arrived.
I liked them too much.
Even on the Photos you’re showing here you can see that the small legs on the top of the Stem have broken off or are in the process off breaking off. They are just too fragile, specially once taken off. But it gets even worse if you use them for some time. Attached Photos to show you what i mean.
I Used them in a board for only 1 or 2 days and even more legs broke off and made them sound and feel inconsistent.
Very fun concept, but needs more work, i think.

Did they even test the design before going gold with them
Sounds about right, I thought this style of stem would be too fragile. It is a cool ideal to cut down on the amount of plastic on plastic contact that should make a switch feel smoother, but like you said still needs some work. Maybe if they went with a bar of plastic where the top 2 legs are it would make the design more durable & still keep the plastic on plastic contact to a minimum.
That was you posting the measurements? I figured it would be someone from here.
I assume that was you also posting the measurements of the LICHICX XCJZ Purple Bamboo on AliExpress. I did notice when you posted them here 2 weeks ago.
You seem to have an interest in tactiles. I’d be interested to know your impressions of the Purple Bamboo and the Molly Tactile.
In the past few weeks, I haven’t been paying much attention to the site, so I apologize that I missed you posting the Macaron Orange on Dec. 1. [And it didn’t show up on Search for me, either.]
You are the only other person I know of who has received the Purple Bamboo, Molly Tactile, and Macaron Orange.
Over time, you will notice that almost everywhere on Aliexpress there are my reviews)))
I love the light tactile bump. Stronger than medium or heavy. So I have a lot of them in collections or packs of 70.
If we compare these types of switch.
LICHICX has the best quality.
There the body is better, the tolerances are smooth, and there is no ringing of the spring, but most importantly, there is no ringing of the bodice.
And ktt matcha or ktt macaroni or molly are equally light. But their bodice is ringing. Not every switch. If you buy with a reserve, for example for a 60 format, buy 110 switches, then you can find alpha rows without the problem of ringing.
If you compare how pressing occurs.
LICHICX is a more linear and lighter bump.
Molly has a light but short bump and pressing stroke.
KTT matcha and KTT macaroni are very similar, but matcha has a smoother press, while macaroni has a scratchy feeling when pressing stem.
There were high hopes for Molly because of the stem from P3. But usually, for some reason, when you logically think that the materials are good, the manufacturer is good, the mold is new. This means that everything will be fine. For some reason it is almost always not good. But when you don’t expect anything. Like the materials are old and the price is low, or the manufacturer is new and there’s no name, then boom, super switch)))