What did you learn today?

TIL something interesting about BOX Mute Jades.

The only bit of dampening is a tiny square pad molded into the top housing; the bar rests on that instead of the normal plastic stop.

Edit: A descriptive TL;DR of these switches might be:

  • Mute Jade: a BOX tactile that uses a torsion spring to generate tactility instead of the contact leaf. Compared with traditional BOX tactiles, the tactility here is more crisp, sharp, and affirmative without generating much more noise.

The wee dampener; looks a bit like a home-made marshmallow

In fact, this switch has the exact same stem that all the other BOX clickies I’ve opened so far have - it only differs in color:

Seen here a pair of BOX clicky stems; Pink to the left, Mute Jade to the right.

Before anyone gets too excited - yes, the top housing ā€œworksā€ with other clickies - no, it doesn’t make them as quiet as this one. (And while we’re at it, no, this one is not ā€œquietā€ - just less loud than most clickies.) The click-bar itself on this switch is tuned not to make much of a click on the down-stroke, and is generally more mild than a normal BOX Jade’s or even BOX Pink’s.

Here you can see the stop-nub BOX clickies normally do most of their clicking against; in this switch, the dampening pad pushes the bar’s resting position down a bit lower, so this stop isn’t engaged when assembled.

For example - placing the dampened top housing of the BMJ on a BOX Crystal Pink does change the sound, but does not make it all that quiet. The bar is firm enough to click as it plucks across the stem ramp in both directions, but it sounds a bit less hollow and plastic-y to me when compared with a stock Pink.

In case you were wondering, Mute Jades do click at a fairly normal volume if a regular BOX housing is used instead of the stock one. The down-stroke is nearly as quiet as stock, but the up-stroke has a crisp click.


Edit: I’ve also learned that because the pad pushes the bar down, giving it a lower resting position, any BOX clicky equipped with that top housing will have a hair more pre-travel before the bar engages the stem than they did before.


So far they feel to me a bit like a BOX Brown (maybe Silent BOX Brown when it comes to bump strength), but more crisp and sharp in both the sound and feeling departments. They also have better rebound, and the sound is more consistent.

Because of how it’s done, I think that consistency will last, whereas ā€œtraditionalā€ BOX tactiles tend to change their sound over time as the factory lube settles, and that change tends towards a light clicking sound, which many customers have been unhappy with. Even if you like this sound ( :raised_hand:), it can be challenging to coax consistency out of the leaf-and-pusher-generated clickiness.

While it’s not identical, the Mute Jade makes one of my favorite BOX switch mods (tuning the tactile bits to encourage clicking) nearly redundant. I actually love it when this happens. Not only is it better for the specific-switch shopper to be able to just buy these at a non-absurd price without breaking open a few dozen switches, it’s better for me as a builder to now have this readily accessible option.

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Today I learned dental floss is useful for removing keycaps.

I’m away from home right now, but needed to remove keycaps, hence the hack.

But more importantly, I have keyboards where the Esc recess or F13 recess is tight enough that a metal keycap puller scratches the coating on the keyboard or artisan—now I’ll just dental floss, which was surprisingly easy to maneuver and secure around the keycaps.

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I learned this a while back in a rather unfortunate situation. I was granted access to an electronics recycling center in Memphis. They never before had anyone ask to look at their old keyboards, and seemed rather perplexed and skeptical. I think they suspected me of trying to steal hard drive information on old computers or something. I had to plead my case and explain the hobby in order for them to be comfortable with granting me access. Also had to wear a hard hat and sign safety waivers. So, here I am, headed to the facility where they had several bins of old keyboards set aside for me to look at. I realized when I arrived that I FORGOT MY KEYCAP PULLLER.

Lucky for me, I had some floss on hand!

Too bad I didn’t need it much. I looked through hundreds of keyboards in less than an hour. I managed to find 1 nice quitekey and 1 slider over dome board. It was disappointing, to say the least. But hey, I learned about the floss thing!

Twisty ties work well, too :slight_smile:

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Haha, that story is amazing. I’m gong to add ā€œFind a legendary board in recycling/thrift shopā€ to my keyboard bucket list :muscle:t3:.

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I haven’t found any electronics recycling centers around here, and I’m worried that if I did I would find a bunch of computers that I would want to bring home.

I have been going to second hand shops. Haven’t come up with anything yet.

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10g springs come in different heights!

L-R: FC980C, HHKB Pro 2 Type-S, Niz Nano75

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It also looks like they have a different number of windings…

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I’ve been looking at getting a custom PCB made, beyond getting the pcb sent to you, what else do you need to do? Do you have to write in firmware or make it QMK/VIA compatible?

I assume it’s the same process as for a pro-micro

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Oh so i just have to make it QMK compatible. Dunno how to do that, will figure out later.

An open sourced PCB or one you are designing? Most open sourced will already have QMK possibly VIA firmware so it is just a matter of flashing. If doing it from scratch you would need to write the QMK files and compile the firmware. (same idea if you were to make a custom keyboard with a pro micro)

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Is stuff from JLC open source? I would think not, so i guess i gotta write the QMK for it.

JLCPCB is a manufacturer of PCBs. They will make whatever you ask them to. Open source PCBs are most often stored on GitHub what are you trying to make?

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an f-row less WKL PCB/Plate. I understand now, and have found some tutorials for what to do.

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I learned today that there’s no shame in using dielectric grease. The reason I’ve never had a ā€œniceā€ sounding stab EVER is that I’ve thought DG was inferior. Definitely gonna try using it more in the future. :+1:

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I’m soon to run out of my bottle that I’ve had for close to 7 years now. Bought it at Home Depot for $3. It’s all I’ve used for stabilizers since my second ever build. Good stuff

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I made a mix of SuperLube grease, 206g0 and 205g0 (45/45/10)
And my stab turned out perfect. :yum:

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I got better results with dielectric than superlube, and more consistent.
But maybe it is because I start to better handle stabiliser voodoo :wink:

I’m going to try the BZD on my next build, I got a sample from a friendly community member.

Toshiba, like Topre, is a shortening/contraction of the original name of the company which was Tokyo Shibaura Denki K.K.

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