My built Frog on my home desk with Dolch R5.
Hotswap PCB by Gondolindrim, aluminium plate, soft 50A tadpoles, and Gateron North Pole v2 lubed with 3203, filmed and with the yellow silencing ring removed.
I like the board a lot, but not so the build.
On the plus side:
- Perfect isolation of the case from the plate, no need of foam or force break mods to make it sound right.
- No flex but a good amount of bounce (need one day to check with harder tadpoles), I like that a lot.
- If sounds surprisingly very deep, maybe the switches ?
On the minus side the switches are not what I expected, would be exagerating to say they are trash but they are not for me (at least at the moment of this writing).
Had them ordered in place of Gateron Inks that were out of stock, the North Pole v2 is (unfurtunately for me) a very different beast.
They do not feel sharp, I’d say slugish if I want to be precise as there seem to be a constant drag when pressing the keys. You’d say that I overlubed them but I think not because I had this feeling with stock switch already.
As a result they feel heavier with a 55g TX long spring than my Inks or Gat Yellows with 60 TX long springs, and on the stabilized keys this slugginess feeling is even more apparent.
I’ll see if things improve over time, if not I’ll change to Inks or standard Gat Yelows and put then into the trash.,.
Too bad because they are kind of pricy and they may be the contributor of the deep sound if it is what you like…
That sounds like the way Aqua Kings, Tecsee Ice Candy, and the new HG Clear Linear Switches feel. I think it’s tight tolerances and stick slip combined on these switches that just make them feel off. I love the sound of Ice Candy and HG Clear Linears, but the sluggish feel can be offputting. Makes me question how much I will put up with for good sound. Ha.
Ok, I am not crazy then 
I do love the bassy sound they make, and have to admit that I’m getting used to the stick slip phenomenom … until I go back to work tomorrow and type on my Manta75 with Gateron Inks
I forgot to mention the new KeyGeek Raw switches as well. They have this tight feel too, especially when you press near the top of the key. You do get used to it, but it’s a bit refreshing to go back to switches without it after a while. I wonder if these switches with tighter tolerances would benefit from an old-is-new-again design of a curved PCB/plate.
Today, I’ve very happy to have a working M65-A on my desk. Special thanks to @Rico with his Phoenix 01 project.
Details here:
I like the Bluey sticker.
Is that a default color for realforce? Or did you paint that? Looks great! Topre is one of those things that I have been meaning to get back into. MX stems seem easy to get, and most board seem to have re-mapping software now too.
Back to this stiff boy. I totally appreciate the ingenuity of the M60-A when it first landed, but it’s amazing how it more represents the state of custom keyboards at a specific time. Going to this after a week playing with Salvation is… jarring. Still, it sure looks pretty!
It’s a 91u case that I painted gray. Definitely turned out really well haha. And yeah topre is very good now, with the custom PCBs from Cip, remapping is possible which is great.
I like it all, but I’m especially loving the canary yellow Safari.
Where do you get those classic clear cables?
That’s a Lindy cable with USB-C. I’m pretty sure I found this one on Amazon.
Serious setup! 10/10
Put EPBT Soju on my Rosalina. Colors are nice, but the alphas are uncharacteristically blurry and fat.
Then again I was typing on SP Dye Sub earlier, so I may just be biased on quality. But I swear EPBT used to be better than this.
Love my thermals. After such a long wait (over 2 years) I’m so happy. They were easy to put together, feel and sound fantastic and the build quality is incredible.
I still have a rose to build too 
