Love this board! assuming it’s a tokyo60(love the hhkb) I wanted to know where your caps were from. Really love them and also wondering if you could link me to your deskmat too. love it!
That spacebar warp
I rebuilt my Ikki68 Aurora Mizu ed. with a soldered PCB and polycarb plate. The sideways switches on the hotswap version alongside the thick ass stabs that it shipped with were not good for my keycap stems. The pic is under warm lighting.
- TTC Bluish Whites w/ dampening pads removed, 63.5g Tecsee slow curve long springs, 3204
- Pre-retool GMK screw in stabs
- Domikey Hush Deep Sea (pretty good overall – way straighter spacebars than GMK’s latest)
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ikr haha my own spacebar (blue samurai clones off amazon) is warped too but just barely noticeable thank gosh.
whatcha building with react?
$90 of learn through my mistakes.
I mean it’s fun and all, but hardly useful in that it can only handle 6 digits for calculation when 8 are available. I’m sure there’s something written in Japanese regarding this, but I haven’t whipped out the old Google-translatomatron to determine how I could be less responsible with money than a 6 year old with a 5 dollar bill.
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Ha! Mainly just updating dependencies on a bunch of older projects from school, and re-working some of them to use hooks and Redux.
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KBD67 v3
- Brass plate
- Kailh Deep Sea silent linears
- Tuned GMK stabs
- Padded w/ tripod holes
- CXA WoB
- KBDfans precut PCB foam
I’m liking these keys so far, and am enjoying typing with them.
I’m also seeing why people don’t like retooled GMK stabs so much. Even with lube they’re pretty sandy, and they seem like they have more friction than they should when caps are on them. I’m using switches with less than 4mm of travel, so balancing them with shim washers helped a fair bit with the extra friction, but didn’t eliminate it completely. Still - I’ll take sandy scrapes over ticks any day. 
The heck is a tripod hole, you ask? It’s the unused bit of foam from VL Switch Tripods; basically a little disc of adhesive foam the perfect size to fit under a stab stem without being under the housing. They’re about the size of the fat plastic center pin (or “tube bottom”) of an MX switch.
I’ve noticed lots of stabs will loosen their grip on the wire when pads are under them, because the pad forces more tension on that side when they’re in place. Tick is my nemesis, so I sought out something else to dampen the stabs with for this quiet build - and those leftover dots just happened to be at-hand. And what do you know! They work great, and aren’t even as mushy as I expected - just takes the edge off.
I’m guessing it works so well with GMK stabs because they are originally designed with those little feet I clipped off, so the foam might not fully compress at bottom-out. I’ll be trying them with other stabs, so I’ll report if performance is different with those.
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That’s sexy, is it hot swap?
I think from the last picture the sockets look to be soldered.
You would think for the price it would be hotswap, but no @Backspace is correct, I soldered in sockets.
I recently also built one, but can live with its 6 digits for calculations, woodworking, simple math. I also made a stupidly hard to make wooden case for it, in the end I do not like the case that much. I’ll make some pictures the next days.
I would love a fancy calculator with switches, unfortunately nothing really available.
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Ducky made one a few years ago, but they have this bad habit of coming up with a good idea and abandoning it in less than a year when it doesn’t fly off shelves.
See:
-
Ducky gold-on-black side-print PBT keycaps (been searching for a gold-on-black cap set for literal years)
Edit: hey, it looks like zFrontier still has some Lelepads - the screen is kinda small but as far as I know it will function as a calculator with switches, though I also believe it will need USB power to function as one unlike the battery-powered Ducky.
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That Ducky numpad/calculator is exactly what I would want if they still made them.
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Saru switches have super long pole stems right? Only 3mm travel. That’s less than a speed switch or box switch. Is it really noticeable?
Yeah, the short travel is definitely noticeable, especially if you’re coming from a full-travel switch. That said, I found I got used to it pretty quickly and was hitting the higher end of my normal WPM in just a few minutes. The affirmative tactility helps with that for sure.
These are some very loud and clacky bois. Wearing headphones I’m really enjoying the feel, though the sound is a little much for me with my ears in the open air. 
Fans of clackity-clacks, Sarus may be a satisfying option.
These are sold as a high-tactile, and while I would put them in that category, I think it has more to do with that super-crisp long-pole bottom-out than the tactile bump, which itself isn’t hard to push through. At very least, the bottom-out weight of the spring is higher than the peak force of the bump, so they don’t have that falling-off-a-cliff feeling that some high-tactiles do.
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Built my J01 today. Carbon fiber plate with TTC Matrix-01 linears stock (except lubed space bar switch)
It’s a unique typing experience. I like it but it’s rather different from what I usually type on.
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Sounds like you’re not completely sold =/