Printed a matching orange Darth Vader keycap. It turned out awesome and has a taller profile, which matched the tall profile of the K-Series keycaps.
Nice, the board looks awesome with that set up! Most artisans are a pain to use with taller caps. Like the Keybuto & Legion I got from SUK that match Godspeed. I got SA Godspeed & with the artisans being so short they are close to useless with the set. I can only really use them on my Clueboards & 660M since they have the two keys on the top right that are separated from all the others. On any other boards, even when putting them in R3 the artisans sit way below the other caps & just look really out of place.
The WKL Tofu. I’m liking this board much more than I thought. Just having a layout I don’t typically use or see is fun and makes this a unique one in my collection.
It’s also one of the thockier sounding boards I’ve used which I was kind of surprised about. I was going to stick some sorbothane under the pcb, but I actually really enjoy the noise it makes without.
I’m using 65g Zealio V2s in it. As a quick aside, these switches are great. Super rounded bump and incredibly smooth. This was the feel I’ve been chasing in tactile switches. To my fingers, it has the qualities I like about Topre, but without some of the mushiness that I perceive from it. I have an order of holy pandas from Massdrop, but they’re going to have to be pretty spectacular for me to choose them over a Zealio V2.
Went back to the Planck and Honeycomb at the office. I love the feel of the lubed vint blacks after I swapped in some 45g gold Spirit springs.
This is the first keyboard I’ve made.
Switches are Kailh low profile, red, handwired and connected to a Teensy 2.0, in a case made out of Walnut wood.
I really like that minty Specialized bike!
This case is so nice! How did you cut it and what did you use to finish the wood?
2017 Specialized Sequoia Elite. That’s a fun one to hit the dirt and gravel with!
Thanks. I’ve cut three layers of 2mm walnut plate with a fretsaw and glued them together. Then it was carefully sanded, and finally finished with boiled linseed oil (5 times).
Wow I have great respect for your patience. I did an iris case cut out with a fret saw and that was a lot of work but I didn’t even cut out switch openings! Thanks for the details as I’m looking for how I want to finish my case. I have tung oil on hand right now.
It was fine for me, because I used to use fretsaw a lot (to build abstract sculptures). I may try combining wood and copper for the next project
Did you see my project? Copper plate with Walnut case. I’ll link it later but I posted it here somewhere.
I see you subscribe to the N+1 mentality for your two wheeled adventures