Those little guys are Band-Aid Tru-Stays. However, I haven’t yet found any stab mod that rivals having exceptionally straight wires/bars.
1 Like
Working on the Maja, which thus far proves more difficult to build right than the U80. I also ordered two sets of Serika Geos and black spacebar kit for it. 
6 Likes
I still have to build my Maja (assuming you’re working on the v2?). Have any tips/tricks/things to avoid suggestions before I get started? I was surprised/disappointed there isn’t a printed build guide.
Yes, it’s a v2. There’s a video tutorial on YT. When you get to work on the stabs, assemble one pair and then assemble the keyboard to test it, you might be surprised how different it sounds on the plate and then within the case, so get one right, then move on with the rest. Being gasket mount, even if you use a brass plate like I do (the default one wasn’t available), the sound can get quite muted. On my Rama, I used C3s with Holee and lube, and other than the spacebar (which needs work) the stabs sound amazing.
While assembling the gasket foam, I realized (with the help of Discord) that instead of applying it to the plate, it’s better* to apply it to the case, which decouples it from the plate, so you can change the plate easily later, without having to get more gasket foam (you get enough for one plate + 4 spares) and without having to reapply it, which is time-consuming. Not only that, the gasket foam pieces are slightly longer than the plate notches they are supposed to be applied on, but if you apply them to the case instead, it fits fine because it was pre-cut to the case’s notch measurement and not the plate. *It’s preference. Having it on the plate has some benefits when aligning the plate.
Lastly, I can’t really recommend KBDFans stabs. I bought a kit to use on the Maja and instead of testing one pair of stabs, I prepped all of them with lube and then assembled them just to find out it has a serious wire balancing issue or maybe a really bad stem and housing tolerance. The key would twist up and down when pressing on it, which was unacceptable, so I replaced them with C3s, but a C3 kit only comes with 4x2U, so now my build is stuck until the extra wires I ordered will arrive. I thought I could just pick a 2U wire from the KBDFans kit, but apparently, their wire is a tiny bit shorter than C3’s.
1 Like
Thanks for your quick response! Finally getting around to replying in detail. The YT build guide looks pretty decent, but I do worry that I can’t download/print the guide to keep with the case if I ever need it.
That is great to know! I recently built the Vega 65 where it was recommended to put the gaskets on the plate because they were perfectly fitted to that plate, but I do wonder if I should have devoted a bit more time to put them on the case if I want to swap out the plate easier. I’m honestly very happy with the Vega’s aluminum plate, so it’s less of an issue and more of a future-proofing sort of thing.
I ordered the brass plate for the Maja v2 as well, but I’ve heard good things about the PC plate, so I think swapping this one is more likely at some point.
Hah! I did the exact same thing with thinking the Durock v2 set I had included five 2U stabs, not four. Went to build it right after I received it and realized I had to put it back in the box for a bit (and then got distracted with other boards). If you ever need them, I found that Prime Keyboards sells 2U Durock v2 stabs as standalone items, so I was able to pick up a few 2Us for the Maja without having to pay extra for 6.25/7u wires. Glad to hear the C3s + mods are working well for you!
1 Like
Finally lubed my KTT Strawberries today with 205g0. Currently breaking them in to spread the lube around. Might be a top contender for favorite linear.
7 Likes
Decided to pull out Epsilon’s switches from Alice. Since they are stock there, I want to re-lubricate them in the future and install them on tiger80 or qk65.
And instead of them, put MOYU Hardess for verification.
And put JWICK Ginger on the freed qk65.
But they are completely clones of the onion Wuque. And I already put onion switches.
I decided to check, and if you put a larger spring. The stock Wuque is easy for me.
They were lubricated at the factory. I just didn’t look where I should.
They smeared only the tips that touch the leaf.
3 Likes
I snagged this electrically buggered 2014 Razer BlackWidow for only ~$5. I plan on making a QMK compatible replacement PCB for it:
8 Likes
Cool project, yet again!
3 Likes
Finally found some little tykes for a themed build I’m working on. I’ve wanted to try these since they first hit IC a couple years ago (rip theroyal, lol).
Edit: if you’ve got 30-40 toy bricks hmu, I’d love to compare them 
8 Likes
Toy bricks? Are they a switch?
Noticed that the MicroB port got all wiggling around, tried to pin it down with Sugru aaaaaand its gone. Thought on soldering the cable directly on, got Data+ done, aaaaaand the pad is gone. So i decided to f… it, desolder the pro micro and get a KB2040 on there as soon it arrives
5 Likes
KB2040 arrived and installed. I also changed out the pin headers as they wouldn’t let go of the small parts of pro micro that were still attached to them.
9 Likes
I just can’t get used to the placement of the Fn key on the HHKB. The split backspace, the Ctrl on Caps, both fine, but I need my split spacebars. So I’m working on a mod for the Heavy Grail so that it can use MX switches along with a DZ60 PCB. After a few rounds of prototyping with a 3d printer I have a plate that will work. Just sent it off to a laser cutting company. Next step is making a mounting bracket for the USB-C breakout board.
11 Likes
Which version of the HHKB is it? If it’s an older model (the model name escapes me right now) you can buy a Hasu controller for it which is QMK/VIA compatible, and you could remap that sucker any way you wished. If it’s the recent model, disregard my ramblings. I like a split spacebar myself, but I comfortably use the SpaceFn macro on all my non-split boards (solves the fn key placement and possibly split bars if you use them in that fashion).
I’m not bringing this up to dissuade you from pursuing this as it’s really cool what you’ve accomplished (might be worth pursuing regardless). I was just hoping to help you preserve the Topre experience while gaining more flexibility. A custom controller has made my 660C perfect.
3 Likes
My second psb hotswap board arrived. on which I will assemble only tactiles with an aluminum plate.
5 Likes
Didn’t know about Akko POM switches. Looks like it may be long-poled and not heavy in tactility. Thx. My thockiest sounding board uses a light-tactile long-pole stem in all-POM housing (OG NK Cream top + FLCMMK Ice Mint bottom). Going to get some to see if I can use them to make more.
