KB2040 arrived and installed. I also changed out the pin headers as they wouldn’t let go of the small parts of pro micro that were still attached to them.
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I just can’t get used to the placement of the Fn key on the HHKB. The split backspace, the Ctrl on Caps, both fine, but I need my split spacebars. So I’m working on a mod for the Heavy Grail so that it can use MX switches along with a DZ60 PCB. After a few rounds of prototyping with a 3d printer I have a plate that will work. Just sent it off to a laser cutting company. Next step is making a mounting bracket for the USB-C breakout board.
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Which version of the HHKB is it? If it’s an older model (the model name escapes me right now) you can buy a Hasu controller for it which is QMK/VIA compatible, and you could remap that sucker any way you wished. If it’s the recent model, disregard my ramblings. I like a split spacebar myself, but I comfortably use the SpaceFn macro on all my non-split boards (solves the fn key placement and possibly split bars if you use them in that fashion).
I’m not bringing this up to dissuade you from pursuing this as it’s really cool what you’ve accomplished (might be worth pursuing regardless). I was just hoping to help you preserve the Topre experience while gaining more flexibility. A custom controller has made my 660C perfect.
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My second psb hotswap board arrived. on which I will assemble only tactiles with an aluminum plate.
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Didn’t know about Akko POM switches. Looks like it may be long-poled and not heavy in tactility. Thx. My thockiest sounding board uses a light-tactile long-pole stem in all-POM housing (OG NK Cream top + FLCMMK Ice Mint bottom). Going to get some to see if I can use them to make more.
First Corne, Split and LP Build all in one. Kailh Choc Pinks with only lube, tried tape modding and after soldering a few I decided I don’t like it. Good I gone without plate so I could remove the tape again. Just waiting for another MCU to finish this.
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Testing stab lube after 6 months of everyday use. I swear, that Nyogel is pure silicon magic. It has the consistency of honey while still being greasy as all get-out. It keeps the upstroke deep and knocky. Almost like chess pieces moving around on the board … that velvet and hard wood percussion sound. Neat.
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I got some of that another time you mentioned it - I should give it a try on my next build!
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Testing some Topre configuration options thanks to @Dave!
Learned I much prefer the conical springs over the Volcano springs. Given the way you can mix and match springs, domes, housings, and sliders this is really handy.
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You know those decorative nightstand mirrors people use as fancy coasters, well – they make the most amazing surface for balancing stab wires. The mirror’s density and hyper clean surface leaves no room for tick to hide. Even the most subtle tings get amplified making them instantly noticeable, plus you can see the damn wire move regardless of your room’s ambient noise level. I really appreciate that. After a bit of fuss, you’re left with some insanely great wires.
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Hell yeah!!
Saturday modding…
(blame the weather - it’s been raining for 4 days non-stop and thus keeping me indoors):
- put In Gateron Oil Kings - I really like them!
- lubed the stabilisers with Di-electric grease. Hallelujah, so easy and SO good!
- tried honeycomb foam on the Dygma Raise which was not as effective as the butyl stuff (interestingly it made the Keychron sound lovely, but was too thick for it to keep the bounce). On the upside, it only took 15 minutes to cut and apply for the Raise vs 2 hours for the finicky and sticky Butyl.
- different brand Butyl sound deadener for right hand side of keyboard. Doesn’t sound quite the same as the first one and is much softer and stickier, and needed to be taped at the edge - oof! Sounds nice though.
- tried the tape mod on the back of the PCB. Did nothing for me, it seemed to just make it louder.
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I finished desoldering a couple TKL PCBs to swap plates around this morning, then rebuilt my KFE CE with a 1mm CEM3 PCB on a POM half plate. It feels really nice now, with a very soft bottom-out.
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Having a center groove down the bottom housing rails like this is just amazing. It basically reduces the contact area by a third without compromising stability. Plus, a nifty bit of lube remains in the groove after modding, which is what the slider ends up gliding on. It reminds me of those kickass slip-and-slides growing up.
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Which switch?
Those are WS Aurora Fogs. I absolutely dig they also give you the choice of lubed or unlubed, I love that.
1 Like
I made a castling, transplanted switches acco pom brown and stabilizers gateron v2 to kechron 40.
I also made a break force mod, I also glued a patch under the stabilizers.
And on QK65 I decided to put airboards Naevies V2.
Their body is very dense, the film is not needed.
Stem’s legs were already oiled. Relubricated to 205g0.
Then I thought for a long time what kind of stabilizers I should install.
Also, instead of gatherons of stabilizers (they were transplanted to kechron 40), I installed Staebies V2 - Black Nylon. For 55 minutes I was tormented with a wire-eye staple at 6.25. Just a banana curve completely.
After the first keyboard races, the whole difference between Akko and naevis, is just that naevis has a smaller move. Feels almost the same.
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I spent way too much time trying to find out what was causing this very noticeable and extremely annoying key binding on the spacebar. The stems on the keycap are actually a bit too girthy for the box switches I’m using which is preventing the top housing from clearing the stem per usual. Luckily, the kit came with an accent spacebar that had way better tolerances. Nice.
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I decided to sit on the weekend (14+ hours in two days), to make new assemblies of my no longer new keyboards.
This is the final version.
At first, I decided to simply improve the stabilizer on the qk65 assembly, which is for linear switches on a pom plate. There is a gap keycap stabilizer, TX version 2. I disassembled it, leveled the bracket again. Re-greased everything and put it back together.
More in this assembly simply can not be improved. Ideal for me.
Then I decided to put the Epsilon switches on the KBD Tiger 80. Lubricate them again (they were stock).
As a result, there are also stabilizers changed to others.
And keycaps to put for the test new “Maple” purchase from TaoBao. This set has a keycap space from pure abs. But he is 7u, just for tiger80.
Here it took me the most time for kechron 40 Q9.
All because of the stabilizer on the keycap gap. Not how it was impossible to make an ideal option for me. Either the sound down is bad, then the sound of the impact is up. That’s ratling.
As a result, I put the Stabies B2 nylon.
Switches decided new gateron blue. I don’t know exactly what it is. But they are tactile.
Lubed them with 205g0.
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