This is a new sign of a stressful job.
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It did indeed. Haven’t pulled out that specific switch in a long time, but recently I noticed that I had to really press down on the key to get Ctrl to work. Seeing this it makes sense now, as the leg seemingly snapped off and didn’t make contact until the switch was pressed onto it.
However, I’m still puzzled as for how the leg would simply break off during normal operation. The break-off point also looks like an extremely clean cut:
The narrator’s eyes narrow, the weight of suspicion creeping in as he stares at the photo in stunned disbelief. Is this part of a carefully orchestrated scheme? A plot to bring him down, perhaps even an attempt on his life? The tension thickens… to be continued…
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Clearly the keyboarding equivalent of cutting the brake lines. Time to start considering whether you have any enemies…
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Feel like the Gazzew switches do have a really thin leg. How wiggly are those switches in the plate?
Wondering if there is enough north/south movement with that switch in the plate to weaken and eventually snap off that leg.
Similar to what happens when you wiggle the tab of a soda can back and forth enough where the tab eventually snaps off pretty cleanly.
Would also think that if there is some movement that the fatigue on the switch leg could be exaggerated by the leverage a taller profile like MT3 could create.
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Today, just a little Halloween trypophobia for your viewing “pleasure,” lol. Also called in-progress 3D-printing tree supports. I have what I hope will be the final version of my Honeywell case chugging along.
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While an interesting hypothesis, I can confirm that north/south movement is nonexistent. As with the soda-can analogy, a constant wiggling of the leg would have very likely resulted in the material being slighly deformed. However, as can be see on the second photograph, the leg doesn’t appear to have any deformation.
Another interesting information bit is that the cut happened at a point of the leg that is inside of the switch housing. If wiggling would have occurred, I would expect the leg to be cut off where it meets the housing’s leg-opening, as it would be likely for that border to cut into the leg. But this is interestingly enough not the case.
It remains a mystery.
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This was earlier this week but just getting to post - switched out my CYL Rouge caps for DCS Good Morning on my Hippo! I feel like I’m swimming in a pool under a blue sky. Outemu Pear switches, alu plate, no foam, blue picnic table deskmat 
- I’m realizing that I’m putting all my GMK CYL back in boxes lately
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I like the bezels : )
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I swear Hippo is like more bezel than keyboard lol it’s amazing.
Rouge looks so good but good morning definitely has better contrast for that board!
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I prefer the contrast too! I can never match keycaps to a board quite right…also yeah this is my only Jacky Design board and it’s. so. big. But I love it!
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I’m still pretty bummed that I didn’t get one. I chose not to preorder and hoped that I could pick up an extra, but they sold out in seconds and I’ve never seen one for sale on mechmarket. The piggy60 is one of my favorite 60% boards.
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I bet they will come up on mechmarket after a bit - what color were you thinking? I’m contemplating the piglet numpad…
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I wanted olive but I’d probably buy whatever was available. My piggy is lilac.
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Beautiful!
Can I ask you to identify where your hands rest on the bottom bezel? Do they clear it or are your wrists slightly on the edge?
I have been interested in this board for a while but I don’t really hover type, so I was concerned my wrists would sit in an awkward spot.
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I used up the rest of my excess 3D filament (three colors if you look carefully) by printing a refined version of my US-letter-sized stacking keycap trays (8.5”x11” footprint, or just a bit shorter and wider than A4 paper). This version leans into the fact that it’s 3D-printed, so it holds more caps while also being more rigid. In particular, I fine-tuned the ISO Enter slot so it could handle at least two of those or three 2.25u caps. I also narrowed the material-saving cutout slots just a bit to make sure DSA can’t slip through, which was theoretically possible (though it would have been quite unlucky) on the second version. Like the earlier iterations, it handles sculpted SA just fine, so it should handle MT3 as well.
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I hover-type, but if I let my wrists drop enough, they do touch the bottom bezel of the board. I have small hands I think too! I kept putting off replying so I could try to get a photo, but I haven’t been able to get one yet so replying and will see if I can get a pic soon!
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Those are shiny caps, who made them?
I saw a video from KBDfans that you can use an “O-ring” on Agar as a mounting method. I ordered it. Received it. Made it.
It’s a shame the default foam can’t be used with an O-ring. It can be done if you press really hard with your hands and just push it down with your entire body weight. Yes, it’s possible, but it’s dangerous, and I couldn’t figure out how to get it back out.
I had to assemble it without foam.
MX board
PP plate
K-01 tactile switches.
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