PCBsnaps or Keysnaps would work with the foam (you may have to put some cutouts in the foam for where the snaps go) & preserve the softer feeling of using an o-ring. The acoustics are pretty different though, with an actual o-ring the sound gets muffled a bit. While PCBsnaps/Keysnaps have a more open, louder sound more reminiscent of something like top mount.
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Finally giving the Keygeek Little Elf switches a try in the Spyder. Also decided to bust out the alum plate for it, still using PCBsnaps for the mounting. So far I’m really liking the switches, they are very similar to the Y2 switches though, the 7 sphered stem tip doesn’t do anything the waffle tip doesn’t or vice versa IMHO. These do sound a tiny bit more pointed & high pitched than Y2s, but you really gotta slow down & listen to discern the sound differences. So while I do think the Little Elf switches are really nice, I wouldn’t say there is any reason to go out of your way to get these as most of the deeper sounding KG switches will get you pretty much the same typing experience.
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Not so much what is on my workbench as what isn’t. Y’all, my workbench is never ever this tidy, and I say that knowing that it’s still pretty cluttered, LOL.
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I’ve been using my m60-A for a few weeks now with a space bar wire popped out on one side. 
Something odd about knowing I have a $4,000 keyboard sitting right behind me, yet I keep on with this one. I believe it’s pure laziness.
Anywho, I decided to go back to silent switches in it. I think that’s the best solution for the rigid, thick integrated plate. I’ve rebuilt and modded this board more than any in my collection. It’s definitely my workhorse board.
This time I used Lichicx Jingwan v2 silent switches and topped with Rainy Day. I picked this set up for very cheap a few months back and hadn’t ever mounted it. It’s gloomy and rainy out today so I thought it was fitting.
Oh, and I swapped out the space bar stabilizer from a cherry with clipped legs and only 1 side connected to a Knight stabilizer (properly intact)
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these keycaps look great - nothing wrong with being a bit gloomy
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Thanks. I’m currently in week 3 of isolation/imprisonment in my keyboard room because of construction upstairs. Going mad. Send help. THE BANGING NEVER STOPS
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I recently moved to New England and got to know an elderly gentleman with an old woodshop on a piece of private property that’s fairly deep in the woods:
Today we started working on a simple palm rest for my daily driver:
Originally I wanted to do walnut because I thought the desaturated dark brown would be a good match for my dark Commodore keycaps. But unfortunately he was all out of walnut, so cherry it is. Maybe I’ll try to stain it, we’ll see.
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Being able to hangout in that random old woodshop with the owner must have been an experience.
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It really was.
When I expressed gratitude, saying that he had let me in on a pretty awesome piece of his world, he practically scoffed at me, as if I was laying it on too heavy or pulling his leg. I think this has just always been his life, it’s normal to him.
Some people live in such a beautiful universe in a corner of the world, but maybe it takes an outsider to really see it.
That sounded a little kitch, but oh well ^^
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That’s like a fairytale situation, honestly. Too cool. It’s funny that he doesn’t see it that way.
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First, this is amazing. I love woodworking, and through all of my other hobbies my woodshop is the foundation of everything else, even if the sheer commitment means I’ve never mastered it like I would have liked.
Second, don’t stain the Cherry. Some sort of tinted Danish Oil maybe, but stain will never look as good as picking the right wood. Order a $60 box of shorts and turning blanks from Home Depot if you’d like to get some nice wrist rest stock for cheap.
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Thanks for the advice.
The only time I’ve done anyting with wood was when I restored an old briar tobacco pipe once by 1) sanding down nicks and scratches, 2) staining, 3) buffing with high-grit sandpaper, and 4) polishing with oil. I was pretty happy with the look and was just going to repeat those steps here, but perhaps best to skip the stain.
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LOL, just because I’m subject to the groupthink doesn’t mean you have to be. Stain exists for a reason, after all.
I would ask your new friend, though. He’s likely got some ideas of his own, and there are other ways to darken cherry.
I never really liked the knurled rotary encoders with 3DP knobs as I really had issues with getting the fitment just right, so I try to use screws for them whenever I can. However, building keyboards with D-Shaft encoders always meant to screw the knob down on the flat side and as such, always slightly placing the know a bit off-center.
So, a few minutes in Fusion, 5 minutes on the 3D printer and here are some D-Shaft adapters that now center the knob even if screwed down on a D-Shaft encoder.
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