Not sure if it’s the lighting or what, but Leopold’s beige seems to have an almost metallic note. Looks nice, and the caps work really well with it.
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It has a subtle texture, i think that’s what you’re seeing. It’s a really nice color. More of a sand color than typical beige
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Got my 8k frog out today. I think that mockup for a hakko inspired keycap set got me wanting to use cobalt caps. I love them. 
But it was a “workbench” project bc I noticed when I set it down and my fingers hit the top bezel it had a ring. Oh snap, this needs some gasketing (ok “ForCe BReAk MoD”)
Anywhoo, did a quick painter tape gasketing around the screw holes and it’s much improved. Highly recommend for this particular case. 
Such great keyboards. Super easy to take apart repeatedly, no daughter board to mess with, excellent mounting system, finish is best in class.
It looks like they’ve moved to an even simpler frog now with the leggera system. No through weights and WK layout. Might have to pick up one in L9 
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Agar + Roller V2 + X-ray
I put it in and heard a pop. I thought the stem had cracked — like, great, now the shift key is ruined. I pressed it a few times and it seemed fine. But later, when I finished assembling everything and flipped it over, I saw a little round piece on the desk mat. I threw it away… and then I noticed there’s a HOLE in the bottom of the stem)))
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Well, that’s the first time I’ve ever heard of that happening. Very strange. Does it feel normal now?
Also, what do you think of the Roller v2s? I loved the original black ones, but the x-ray version switches were suuuper scratchy. I’m still using them in my X-Ray bauer lite build because I love the way they feel with zero wobble. I think they make great gaming switches.
You need to type on the keyboard for a few days to get a feel for everything.
My first impressions are that it’s the same as versions 1 and 1.1.
When the first versions came out, there was a pause, and then 1.1 came out with fixes like molding or lubrication.
The keypress and sound are the same. There’s a slight noise. There’s friction between the balls when you press them slowly.
But there’s no problem like with 1 and 1.1, where the keycaps didn’t stay in place properly. And after several replacements, or even with older ABS keycaps that had been installed many times, they didn’t stay in place so well that if you turned the keyboard over, they’d fall out under their own weight.
That’s not a problem here.
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Talk about your harsh bottom out!
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How is that even possible? lol
Technically not today but yesterday.
A hodgepodge of parts I’ve had sitting around for way too long.
- Case: Tofu Redux (solid brass with patina) bottom post by space bar removed.
- PCB: Random GH60 I bought from someone on Reddit in 2019 who sold me two of these. He used them to practice his SMD soldering skills. 3305-0 mill max sockets added by me.
- Plate: black PVD coated plate from Jchan group buy in 2017. Yep, I’ve had it sitting around that long and never used it.
- Switches: Roller linear v1 (exceptionally smooth and poppy)
- Keycaps: GMK Botanical desert.
It’s a heck of a keyboard. Dense is the way to go if you want really good sound in a metal case. No foams anywhere. It sounds and feels awesome. I had to put this one on the scales to confirm… 6 pounds, 15 ounces. That’s a chonky paper clip short of 7 pounds (3.2 kilograms). Crazy, right?
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I love the patina on this board.
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Me too! The tofu is a bit sharp and boring for me usually but I really liked the patterns and color of this patina. Bonus that it feels very smooth and doesn’t show finger prints.
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Built my class 65 v3 today. It’s nice . This one is built with NK Dream Cream switches.
Odd choice of yellow PCB with it showing through the top of the case, but I guess it’s unique
You can gasket mount the PCB or top mount the plate (PP Plate in this case, but I have a brass plate coming in the mail).
I chose to top mount it because that’s generally my favorite mounting system. Also, it keeps me from having to add the black poron strips on the top that I’m not a fan of aesthetically.
Fun wrist rest, right?
I own several MM Keybaords, and they’ve all been good experiences. This was no exception. Looking forward to trying out some different switches and keycaps down the road. I put chocolatier on here fo Valentine’s Day 
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I wouldn’t have expected a brown keycap set to pair this nicely with frosted polycarb, but it’s a perfect march with the wrist rest. Yellow Enter is a nice accent nod to the PCB as well!
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It looks so good and with the walnut (?) wrist rest!
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Chocolatier pairs very well with the wooden accent of the wrist weight.
Such a nice board!
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That is a trippy looking board at first glance.
I used the ZMK Shield Wizard and ported my favorite DIY board from KMK to ZMK, mostly so it will boot quicker and be usable in BIOS and the like. There’s still some fine-tuning that could be done, like re-compiling with Studio support, but I also realized I actually owe past-me a “thank you” (this is rare) for making the Pi Pico accessible by removing only two screws and not the twelve I initially thought. We won’t talk about the bizarre pin assignments that past-me thought made sense for this board, which is halfway to being a hand-wire.
I’ve also been playing around my new laser module and doing some more dye-sub tests, zapping stars onto some earlier victims test subjects. Quality is maybe a little bit better while going slightly faster, but fundamentally it’s about the same.
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This morning I built an Abyss (blackout) Minerva LX
This one is hotswap. Carbon fiber plate with BSUN maple sugar switches. I think I’ll give it a few days, but my initial reaction is that the switches are a bit too heavy and deep for the rather soft gasket mount. It needs to be poppier.
It sure looks nice. GMK gray on black keycaps.
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There’s a little play in the weight.
I applied a patch.
Aluminum weighs 1.6 kilograms
And polycarbonate weighs 1.2 kilograms.
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