Is this for another build your doing for newcomer?
You what might be cool, you should do a thread with what all your commissions picked. “New person in the hobby wanted X, gave them a switch tester with Y, they picked Z.”
Might be kind of interesting to see what switches people end up choosing based on the entry criteria or desires.
Most of the components I used a flux pen first and soldered using thin 0.015-in solder (if necessary when back with the flux pen to clean up joints. Small 0805 components I have been tinning the pads then using the hot air station. I have found that to work more reliably then just the iron alone plus the parts can be straightened if they were a little askew.
USB-C connectors are still tricky for me. I have yet to try the through part connector you recommended but did managed to get one soldered perfect by using flux then tinning the soldering iron tip and dragging it over the connectors in parallel. Not sure if it was luck, or a good method.
(Please ignore the yellow wire and flux this daughterboard needs 1 more revision)
My last “big” soldering project for a while. Finished some Hasu compatible USB-C controllers for FC660C. I had one from the original designer but wanted one, in white, that I soldered myself . My hope is these will fit nice in a Heavy-6 will see whenever it shows up. Will create a separate post selling 4 of these for sale incase anyone wants one.
Things Learned
Going assembly line style is a slow & burnout activity. Part of the way through switched to printing a large copy of the PCB to paper laying out the parts then transferring to the PCB made things more manageable and enjoyable for me
How to solder USB-C connector more reliably. Flux pen, very light amount of thin solder 0.015. If anything gets bridged use more flux and solder wire to remove and touch up. Also check with Multimeter to make sure there are no unseen bridges.
Flux pen is awesome. Also they include a second tip because they get destroyed
Isopropyl 92% with toothbrush is way better at removing flux/rosin then 72%
I’m glad you got it to fit. I wouldn’t call it intentional from trilobite’s point of view at least. All of the hello m0110 aluminum and polycarb plates that shipped with the case a month or two ago were all borked (the switch cutouts were accidentally placed 1mm to the left on the plate files). Trilobite just took the provided *corrected plate files that came out a few days later and made some wood ones while we wait on replacements to be made. He may have had intention of doing this anyway, but the files were not his design. As far as the case designer goes, I know the new plates support top mount or gasket mount, so that may impact the shape, and I can’t speak to it’s design compared to the modern m0110 as this is an iteration of the fist hello/ryloo case.
Compared to brass it resonates more. I would call it more “thock” but that word means different things to different people. The sound of hitting a guitar face… more of that sound. The M0110 doesn’t have a lot of space inside so it doesn’t sound hollow, but just more resonate.
I got this plate because I wanted the option of tsangan bottom row with full backspace. And because it looks awesome.
Ha, wait 'til LGR gets wind of wooden switch plates… he’s all about old tech, especially if it involves wood grain - and he appreciates a good keeb, too.