Assembling and fiddling around with the BBOX case this evening.
For tonight I have a GK61x PCB with aftermarket alu plate in there, and some stock Akko Lavender Purples.
Haven’t put on the stickers yet but it’s already looking like a throwback with SA Chocolatier on it.
Something about these shapes is very satisfying to me.
This seemed like the perfect set to use with this case while I’m waiting on MT3 Retro.
These colors really bring back the retro vibe.
Yup! What a great colorway choice. Classic.
Will probably look better than MT3 Retro until they release a brown mod kit!
Just got some new and old Creams today; thought this might be a good opportunity for some comparison photos:
Cream Arc left, OG Cream right
OG Cream left, Cream Arc right - note logo size difference
Tactile, Arc, OG, BOX
Edit:
I love POM POM! 
(POM POM POM POM)
You love POM POM!
(POM POM POM POM)
POM POM sh!t
(POM POM sh!t)
No pics since I already got it done but my Planck Rev6 pcb seems to be on its last leg. Been getting a lot of random disconnect/reconnects the last couple weeks. I tried different cables, ports, and computers and seem to have the same issue, only getting worse. I have a spare somewhat used pcb so I swapped that in, compiled and flashed it with my latest keymap iteration and tested for a short time with no dc’s. Hopefully that fixed the issue. fingers crossed
A new build and the chaos of experimentation. I put the Polaris together with the gasketed PC plate for now so that I can use it and continue to be indecisive about painting it. Really enjoying the sound profile of the TTC Wilds. I used the stock foams just to try it in stock form but time will tell if they stay in. It’s been a while since I put these keycaps on anything but I still love how they look on a black board.
The Tealios are what led to the mess. I found Durock long springs that were shorter than the symmetric springs that were giving me issues and…the same result of coil friction crunch. For whatever reason, Tealios just do not get along with longer springs. Happily, I had success with 60g TX long springs. They’re not my first choice of spring but I’m happy to have something that works. So I wanted to avoid using TX longs and ended up with…different TX longs 
All done, and while I really like this Keycap set, especially in this configuration, I for some reason don’t like it on this board. So I’m going to try something else.
I think it’s that they’re just too tall and obscure the cool exposed circuitry at the top. So lower-profile is likely the answer.
Dessert first; the fruits of today’s labor. (Yours are next, @Den-Fi!) Part of a low-budget build project, these switches are for a friend entering a WFH position who wanted something quiet. From a selection of 9 shushed switches, they chose these, the only frankenswitch on the tester:
They’re actually quite nice; I might make some of these for my own work keeb.
Dis-assembled Bobagums
Gateron Silent Browns unfortunately sound and feel very cheap thanks to a chattery leaf and so-so tolerances. Bobagums are just way too soft for me. But - by their powers combined…
…a better Brown is born.
Seen above, the Bobagum tops I decided not to use after some felt a little sluggish. Swapping-in the with-slot clear tops did the trick while preserving better tolerance than the stock Silent Browns.
Because this is a budget build with most of the budget in the switches, some sacrifices had to be made.
Poll: would rice be more or less fun if it were this color?
0 voters
In seriousness, the client choosing an Outemu switch was helpful in keeping costs down, as many inexpensive keebs ship with the simple style Outemu sockets that these just barely fit in.
After tub-lubing the springs and brushing the stem rails, I snapped the switches together - that’s really all they needed.
The final product is, as I said above, simply a better Silent Brown. The character of the switch is what you’d expect from a “Silent Brown” - a quiet, light tactile - just a lot more quiet, crisp, and clean than how they come from Gateron’s factory.
I don’t think I want my rice to look like skin tags. :\
I didn’t think you could improve this board much from your original post, but dang – those legends work so well. I dig how the Enter key resembles the case’s side profile. Classy af.
Yeah, I think this is the first time where I’ve recognized that keycap height does make an aesthetic difference for some boards. This one is so thin. Plus, “Less but Better” is a really nice looking set so I’m glad to find a home for it.
I need to design a case for it now and maybe make a TPU insert for the bottom layer. Just to do some sound dampening.
Freshly modded Anubis tactiles for @Den-Fi
These are some very snappy bois
RedDragon BES TKL
The Mt. Fuji and wind sock keys are from the Akko World Tour Tokyo set. The ESC key is one of those cat paws; this one has a painted metal cap with smooshy silicone pads.
The switches are Gazzew Bobagum bottoms and with-slot RGB tops, with stems and springs from Gateron Silent Browns.
It’s not quiet, but it’s a lot more office-friendly than it was out of the box with generic clone blues and rattly stabs.
Forgot to take a pic, but currently on my workbench is my disassembled Polycarb Heavy Grail!
Decided to open it up to lube it a before and after context of the custom plate/slider housings.
but why not either
A: dome swap (currently at OEM 45g)
or
B: Novatouch Sliders (aka an excuse to bust out the dremel)
or
C: whynotboth.gif
Not a board, yet, but doing hardware testing with KB2040 and MCP23018 gpio expander to chuck into RotaryPad and possibly BitBang. Having to do a smidge of bodging to make it work with libs not made for it, but with MCP23017 oos everywhere it’s what I’ve got to work with.
what are the options for A
and is this the board with the Edius caps?
