Toy bricks? Are they a switch?
Noticed that the MicroB port got all wiggling around, tried to pin it down with Sugru aaaaaand its gone. Thought on soldering the cable directly on, got Data+ done, aaaaaand the pad is gone. So i decided to f… it, desolder the pro micro and get a KB2040 on there as soon it arrives
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KB2040 arrived and installed. I also changed out the pin headers as they wouldn’t let go of the small parts of pro micro that were still attached to them.
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I just can’t get used to the placement of the Fn key on the HHKB. The split backspace, the Ctrl on Caps, both fine, but I need my split spacebars. So I’m working on a mod for the Heavy Grail so that it can use MX switches along with a DZ60 PCB. After a few rounds of prototyping with a 3d printer I have a plate that will work. Just sent it off to a laser cutting company. Next step is making a mounting bracket for the USB-C breakout board.
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Which version of the HHKB is it? If it’s an older model (the model name escapes me right now) you can buy a Hasu controller for it which is QMK/VIA compatible, and you could remap that sucker any way you wished. If it’s the recent model, disregard my ramblings. I like a split spacebar myself, but I comfortably use the SpaceFn macro on all my non-split boards (solves the fn key placement and possibly split bars if you use them in that fashion).
I’m not bringing this up to dissuade you from pursuing this as it’s really cool what you’ve accomplished (might be worth pursuing regardless). I was just hoping to help you preserve the Topre experience while gaining more flexibility. A custom controller has made my 660C perfect.
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My second psb hotswap board arrived. on which I will assemble only tactiles with an aluminum plate.
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Didn’t know about Akko POM switches. Looks like it may be long-poled and not heavy in tactility. Thx. My thockiest sounding board uses a light-tactile long-pole stem in all-POM housing (OG NK Cream top + FLCMMK Ice Mint bottom). Going to get some to see if I can use them to make more.
First Corne, Split and LP Build all in one. Kailh Choc Pinks with only lube, tried tape modding and after soldering a few I decided I don’t like it. Good I gone without plate so I could remove the tape again. Just waiting for another MCU to finish this.
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Testing stab lube after 6 months of everyday use. I swear, that Nyogel is pure silicon magic. It has the consistency of honey while still being greasy as all get-out. It keeps the upstroke deep and knocky. Almost like chess pieces moving around on the board … that velvet and hard wood percussion sound. Neat.
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I got some of that another time you mentioned it - I should give it a try on my next build!
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Testing some Topre configuration options thanks to @Dave!
Learned I much prefer the conical springs over the Volcano springs. Given the way you can mix and match springs, domes, housings, and sliders this is really handy.
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You know those decorative nightstand mirrors people use as fancy coasters, well – they make the most amazing surface for balancing stab wires. The mirror’s density and hyper clean surface leaves no room for tick to hide. Even the most subtle tings get amplified making them instantly noticeable, plus you can see the damn wire move regardless of your room’s ambient noise level. I really appreciate that. After a bit of fuss, you’re left with some insanely great wires.
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Hell yeah!!
Saturday modding…
(blame the weather - it’s been raining for 4 days non-stop and thus keeping me indoors):
- put In Gateron Oil Kings - I really like them!
- lubed the stabilisers with Di-electric grease. Hallelujah, so easy and SO good!
- tried honeycomb foam on the Dygma Raise which was not as effective as the butyl stuff (interestingly it made the Keychron sound lovely, but was too thick for it to keep the bounce). On the upside, it only took 15 minutes to cut and apply for the Raise vs 2 hours for the finicky and sticky Butyl.
- different brand Butyl sound deadener for right hand side of keyboard. Doesn’t sound quite the same as the first one and is much softer and stickier, and needed to be taped at the edge - oof! Sounds nice though.
- tried the tape mod on the back of the PCB. Did nothing for me, it seemed to just make it louder.
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I finished desoldering a couple TKL PCBs to swap plates around this morning, then rebuilt my KFE CE with a 1mm CEM3 PCB on a POM half plate. It feels really nice now, with a very soft bottom-out.
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Having a center groove down the bottom housing rails like this is just amazing. It basically reduces the contact area by a third without compromising stability. Plus, a nifty bit of lube remains in the groove after modding, which is what the slider ends up gliding on. It reminds me of those kickass slip-and-slides growing up.
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Which switch?
Those are WS Aurora Fogs. I absolutely dig they also give you the choice of lubed or unlubed, I love that.
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