ha. well I got the stems lubed so I assembled a few to test out again. Not as good as I had hoped.
The silent yellow stem in the Kailh housing doesn’t work. It makes a collision if pressed too hard or at the wrong angle. So that won’t do.
The Kailh red stem in the nylon Gateron housing sounds soooo good. It’s pretty frigging wobbly, though. I don’t know why the one I tested previously wasn’t. They sound so good that I’m going to proceed.
This is such an underrated issue and something I wish manufactures would nail down. Not to mention how a high profile keycap absolutely exacerbates any presence of key binding that might not be there when using a more cylindrical profile.
Okay. Finished. Spent half the day modding switches and half the day putting this together. Quite happy with it.
The gateron nylon housings with Kailh red stems are nice. I think the stem length of the reds is a bit inconsistent, but the result is still a lot better than stock Kailh housings. And I hated the gateron silent yellows, so it’s a win-win.
Class80 TLK with my first ever aftermarket keycap set. Can’t beat the texture of old ePBT.
Solenoid is fun. The beeper is super annoying. Great party trick though. The finish is lovely. Perfect beige. Silky smooth feels nice to the touch.
The kit came with a ton of different foams and options to top or gasket mount. I went with a top mounted polycarbonate plate with the thinner plate foam. Unused is the thicker plate foam (it was like 7mm before compression, poron switch foam sheet, and thick foam for under the PCB with hotswap socket cutouts)
I was actually concerned with trying to use the switch foam sheet b/c it kept attracting static electricity. Seems like a bad idea to me 
I had a hard time closing the case with the hotswap cutout foam, so I left it out. This case definitely doesn’t need all the foam to sound good.
Solenoid sound test!
yep, that’s it!
Working on novatouch daughterboard
No @pixelpusher you mind voodoo has not worked, I was a few days into this project… Or has it…
The dimensions are based on this repo which indicates masterkeys and novatouch use the same cutout but the cable is reversed. So maybe the same design would work for both but the cable pinnout would just need to be changed.
I removed the Feker switches and installed them on a Keychron Q9 with an aluminum plate.
At the original board for Tiger80 where there were Feckers, I replaced them with cream-soda switches.
And the keebox yr-80 board is free and I installed a new stabilizer there for testing.
M.ONE Screw-in Stabilizer Set
Their design is very interesting.
Stem inside the body of the stabilizer does not touch the walls. There, as you can see in the photo, there are guides that fix the movements of its course.
Plus, his bracket when latched into the case, it holds very well. In the video, I showed that the stem does not fall as usual.
POM body. But earlier in the photo on the side, I showed that there is a gap where you can see that the stem does not go down to the end. Does not touch the surface of the PSB.
Therefore, the sound comes more from the switch itself.
Sound test video.
guhehehe i sure was 
I took pictures in the light. Winter sun. 
How difficult it is to pick up the light on the camera phone.
They are black to the eye. And the less light, the darker.
But as soon as you take a picture, they get bright light in the photo.
The soldered version of my Phoenix Project No 1 PCB working perfectly with all QMK RGB lighting effects in action 
Very nice write-up and interesting to see that the pros also sometimes struggle with a thing or two during the build process. Here is the direct link to the article.
As a beginner, I almost get cursed upon here for trying to lube stabilisers with vaseline. However, vaseline (paraffin jelly) is chemically identical to paraffin oil, only more viscous. So yes, I enjoyed reading your post.
Thank you! In terms of building I was much closer to a beginner two years ago, when I built that keyboard - especially when it came to plates that weren’t metal. That was new jazz to me at the time.
I learned a lot in the process - and that build is also why I now keep a “plate fork” around. Turns out other folks had trouble (or maybe just sore fingers) with soft plates, and made a perfect tool for making them easier to build with.
Hello again everyone, today I did a lot. I compared Cherry profiles from different manufacturers. Lubricated and tested Fecker linear switches. Also lubricated and tested TTC BP. It seems to me that the closest to GMK in size is the KBDFans ABS Cherry profile. But PBT keycaps have their own small changes in profile. Also, I will say that Fecker was very pleasing. They have a good heavy stroke. Minimal stem and housing wobbling. And they sound good on PBT keycaps. And I liked the sound of TTC BP switches more on KBDFans keycaps. Both stock switches and with lubrication. But since 21kb keycaps are quieter when typing, I installed them.”
here spoiler as usual a lot of photos.
They have a feature. You can disassemble them without removing the rgb magnifier. But to assemble them during lubrication when they are inside the lubrication station does not work. This glass is in the way. Does not give. You need to pull each one out and manually snap it into place.
Yes, I finally found what I need this pencil for. Which I bought already like a year ago, but did not know what to do with it.
A few videos.
